Gareth- I use essentially the approach you suggest on a 5000, with a few differences. I scan a grayscale positive; I use the analogue gain to more-or-less center the data in the histogram (especially important with dense negatives); I adjust the histogram sliders in but only loosely; and I always scan 8X to reduce noise (the scanner-induced noise is random, so the multiscanning averages out everything that is not consistent in all eight scans, which is the noise); then I spend two hours spotting the image in PS! Also, use 16 bit, which I think you didn't mention. What you get is a light, flat image that includes all the data from the negative. Walt --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "garethjolly" <garethjolly@b...> wrote: > > Glad everyone is having fun with the Farm Security Administration - > have to say I was blown with the quality of the print of the Migrant > Mother I was able to get. > > I think I'm getting on top of my B&W print workflow. > > I'm now starting to look at the scanner end of things. > > I have a Nikon 4000ED with roll film adapter - and I have both Nikon > Scan and Vuescan. > > There seem to be 2 problems with the Nikon / Nikon scan. The first is > that Nikon scan insists truncating the histogram - starting from 30 in > the shadows - on negative scans. The second is focus can be a little > out - due to a combination of limited depth of field, slight curvature > of the negative in the glassless holder and possibly autofocus > problems on some images. (I flippantly remarked on my old LS20 > producing sharper scans than my 4000 and someone pointed this out) > > I'm also a little unsure of the analogue gain function - there seems > to be some suggestion it doesn't affect the lamp brightness in B&W, > simply operating on the post processed image. > > The type of workflow I was thinking of is this: > > - use Nikonscan rather than Vuescan > - scan B&W negatives as a 16 bit colour positive; > - preview the negative > - make slight adjustments to analogue gain if the negative appears > over or underexposed (i.e significant clipping or bunching up of values) > - use manual focus to focus at the centre of the image > - use GEM to reduce grain (taking up Paul's suggestion) > - use multiscan as and when required (especially archival images and > images with problems with shadow definition) > - possibly, use multiple scans with different GEM and analogue gain > settings > - convert to B&W in Photoshop - using the colour combiner. > > I've also ordered an Anti-Newton ring glass carrier insert for my film > strip holder. > > Can anyone help me here? Is there anything I should be doing > differently? This is largely guesswork based on reading a few things. > > And does anyone think I should be using Vuescan instead? The big > advantage to Nikonscan seems to be GEM. And I might need to calibrate > the Coolscan to get the best out of Vuescan - meaning I need at IT8 > target! Don't suppose anyone has an ICC for Coolscan 4000ED? > > Not quite sure how I combine the multiple images. I have Photoshop > CS2. Paul mentioned the cloning tool... Paul, do you have open > multiple images and clone between them? Or am I just totally missing > the point. > > Thanks > Gareth >
Message
Re: Negative scanning workflow: Nikon Coolscan
2005-12-23 by wwodets
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