Digital BW, The Print

Joanne,

Shilesh has described almost exactly what I do, except that I use
IJC/OPM and this is my ink setup:

K2200 = MK4000/4800 (same)
LK2200 = PK4800
C2200 = LK4800
LC2200 = LLK4800
M2200 = LC4800
LM2200 = Krystal Topkote
Y2200 = R800 blue.

I chose the blue and the LC after testing. R800 red is also good, if
you like warm tones. The Topkote and the blue could be switched, of
course. It doesn't matter to me, because I overcoat on a second pass.

I've sent you an email.

Best,
Helen

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Shilesh Jani"
<shileshjani@b...> wrote:
>
> Jo,
> 
...
> 
> The best, sure-fire bet is to use inks specifically designed to do 
> what you want, i.e., the Epson K3 inks. You could easily buy the K, 
> LK, and LLK 220 ml carts for the 4800 printer, suck the inks out, 
> load them into the 2200 carts, write QTR curves, and viola you've got 
> the latest and greatest in RC b/w printing. I bet this will produce 
> the LEAST bronzing on RC papers than any other 3rd party b/w 
> pigmented inset. Oh, boy I hope I have not vaused a firestorm with 
> that last statement. 
> 
> If I were going down that path, here is what I would do:
> 
> K2200 = PK4800
> C2200 = C4800
> M2200 = M4800
> LC2200 = L4800
> LM2200 = L4800
> LK2200 = LK4800
> Y2200 = LLK4800.
> 
> This allows you to neutralize in QTR the otherwise warm PK, LK, and 
> LLK.
> 
> Sounds like fun, doen't it? Welcome to the neurosis I alluded to 
> earlier.
> 
> Shilesh