Digital BW, The Print

Helen, Shilesh...so if I understand you both correctly, you buy ink 
carts for the 4800 printer and use these inks in the empty 2200 
carts? Man, that sounds messy and quite labor intensive. What about 
these Nanochrome inks for the 2200? Is there less bronzing with 
them?  How can I find out more about these inks?

Jo


--- In 
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "helen_bach2003" 
<helenbach@h...> wrote:
>
> Joanne,
> 
> Shilesh has described almost exactly what I do, except that I use
> IJC/OPM and this is my ink setup:
> 
> K2200 = MK4000/4800 (same)
> LK2200 = PK4800
> C2200 = LK4800
> LC2200 = LLK4800
> M2200 = LC4800
> LM2200 = Krystal Topkote
> Y2200 = R800 blue.
> 
> I chose the blue and the LC after testing. R800 red is also good, 
if
> you like warm tones. The Topkote and the blue could be switched, of
> course. It doesn't matter to me, because I overcoat on a second 
pass.
> 
> I've sent you an email.
> 
> Best,
> Helen
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Shilesh Jani"
> <shileshjani@b...> wrote:
> >
> > Jo,
> > 
> ...
> > 
> > The best, sure-fire bet is to use inks specifically designed to 
do 
> > what you want, i.e., the Epson K3 inks. You could easily buy the 
K, 
> > LK, and LLK 220 ml carts for the 4800 printer, suck the inks 
out, 
> > load them into the 2200 carts, write QTR curves, and viola 
you've got 
> > the latest and greatest in RC b/w printing. I bet this will 
produce 
> > the LEAST bronzing on RC papers than any other 3rd party b/w 
> > pigmented inset. Oh, boy I hope I have not vaused a firestorm 
with 
> > that last statement. 
> > 
> > If I were going down that path, here is what I would do:
> > 
> > K2200 = PK4800
> > C2200 = C4800
> > M2200 = M4800
> > LC2200 = L4800
> > LM2200 = L4800
> > LK2200 = LK4800
> > Y2200 = LLK4800.
> > 
> > This allows you to neutralize in QTR the otherwise warm PK, LK, 
and 
> > LLK.
> > 
> > Sounds like fun, doen't it? Welcome to the neurosis I alluded to 
> > earlier.
> > 
> > Shilesh
>