Digital BW, The Print

Tom, even if you were comparing two 1160's your results might be the same.
Each printer is an individual with its own quirks, & will require some
tweaking of the curves. (I add a Curves adjustment layer in PS) -BK

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tomoc [mailto:tomoc@...]
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 2:34 PM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Best method for printing BW
>
>
> I've just set up a 1270 alongside an 1160 and am trying VM on each of
> them. The 1160 consistently produces prints that are about 10-20%
> darker (in the case of am-warm, they are also that much warmer).
>
> All settings are identical on the two print dialogs, only the curves
> added are different.
>
> This isn't a problem (or won't be once I pick one)...
>
> Tom O'Connell
>
> TomOC@...
> www.thomasoconnell.com
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "sunshine_1451"
> <flacita33@h...> wrote:
> > I've also found my prints coming out a bit darker (VM on 1160). I
> > agree that adjusting for the difference is not difficult, since
> > contrast and tonal relationships remain the same.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Todd Flashner <tflash@e...>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I've been very happy with the Piezo "stuff" for a while now,
> but
> > you guys
> > > > have my interest piqued about your workflow.  My main concern is
> > > > WYSIWYG...is that the case with your workflow, is what is on
> your
> > screen
> > > > what comes out the printer?  Are adjustments in PS the same,
> IE,
> > no special
> > > > considerations?  What are the downsides to your workflow?
> > >
> > > Austin
> > >
> > > First off you need to convert your grayscale file to RGB for
> > printing. You
> > > can work your file in grayscale up until you are about to print,
> > then
> > > convert in order to apply Roark's curves. At that point your file
> > will look
> > > wacky and will no longer be WYSIWYG, but it *was up until then.
> > >
> > > *Myself and Jerry actually find that our prints come out a bit
> > darker than
> > > our screen images, but I don't know about other users, and if
> it's a
> > > calibration thing unique to our systems, or a function of the
> > process. I've
> > > just learned to anticipate the situation much as I did dry-down
> in
> > the
> > > darkroom. However by creating a custom dot gain preview, or a
> > transfer
> > > function, it can be overcome, though I haven't done so yet. I
> > happen to
> > > apply an adjustment layer to compensate, and Jerry uses a slider
> in
> > the
> > > Epson driver. None the less up until Roark's curves are applied
> the
> > image is
> > > relatively WYSIWIG, I'd guess within about 15-20% density on my
> > system.
> > >
> > > Todd
>
>
>
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