For people who use pigment inks (i.e., waterproof) there is a sort of
funky way to de-acidify EEM which actually works like a charm. Namely,
after printing the image immerse the paper in a solution of water and
baking soda. The exact concentration of sodium bicarbonate is not
critical - a teaspoon of Arm & Hammer baking soda per gallon of water
will do nicely. (For non-cooks this benign chemical can be found in
the baking supplies section of the supermarket.) The immersion time and
the temperature of the water are not critical, either. One minute at
room temperature is fine.
The trickiest part, and even this is not difficult, is carefully
removing the paper from the water so it does not tear - EEM does not
have the wet strength of silver gelatin photo papers. The larger the
paper the more care is needed. 8x10 sheets can be hung on a line to
dry. 13x19 sheets are better put on a drying screen. Blotting them is a
good idea if you have blotting paper.
The dried paper will have some waviness but not nearly as much curl
as air-dried fiber-based silver gelatin paper. This is the reason to
de-acidify last - it's probably not a good idea to run wavy paper
through your printer. If you hot mount the print the waviness gets
flattened, of course. I expected a residue of white baking soda on the
print but none is visible. In any case you can give the surface a
clean water rinse before drying to avoid residue. To verify that you
are causing no harm dip and dry half a test print and compare.
After this process the Light Impressions ph testing pen on EEM
(front, back, and core) shows not merely blue, meaning no acid, but a
brilliant blue characteristic of highly buffered paper.
Loren CambelloMessage
Re: Epson Enhanced Matte & Turning Yellow?
2006-08-18 by Laurence Campbell
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