Digital BW, The Print

Yah, right you say!

After about 10 days of test prints it looks like I'm getting close to needing to replace some 
ink on the 2400 (see link).

http://www.pbase.com/vinke/image/65402069

What is your philosophy on changing inks in order minimize waste?

As a side note, I'm keeping the 2400 on 24/7.  I think that you do the same.

Additionally, after review EEM vs. Aurora I've concluded that the Aurora is cooler and the 
EEM is warmer.




--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Clayton Jones" <cj@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Kevin,
> 
> >I've heared you mention creating a contrast curve to make your 
> >Aurora print match the EEM proof.
> > 
> >Is it not possible to simply add/+1 or +2 to the Contrast Setting 
> >in 2400 ABW Color Management?
> 
> No this really doesn't do the job.  It's too linear - by that I mean
> it applies a change according to a fixed formula of some sort that is
> always the same may and may not match the needs of the image.  It's
> not just a matter of more or less contrast.  Here's an example:
> 
> Say you work up an image on EEM and you are perfectly satisfied with
> it.  You print it on Aurora and it looks lower in contrast in general,
> and perhaps some midtone areas are a tad too dark.  Highlights look
> ok. So you add an adjustment curve and attempt to make the A. print
> look like the proof.  A typical contrast curve has an S shape, so you
> pull the low end down a bit and raise the center a tad, then make a
> new print.  Closer, but now some high zones have been raised too much.
>  So you add another point up there and pull that back down and make
> another print.  Ahh, much better.  You keep doing this until the A.
> print is an exact or very close match to the proof (with experience
> you get very good and quick at this, especially as you get familiar
> with the response of papers you use regularly - you intuitively know
> how much to move a curve point to get what you want).  
> 
> The curve you end up with is rarely symmetrical, and most likely very
> different than the curve the driver contrast control would have
> applied.  Not only that, but go through the same process with another
> image and the curve will be different.  At the bottom of article #9 in
> the section "Matching the Final Print to the Proof" there are two
> screen shots with examples of these paper curves.  They are quite simple.
> 
> BTW, I save this curve with the image without merging it.  This keeps
> the master image unchanged, and if you ever want to make another proof
> just deactivate the curve and print on EEM.  If you ever want to print
> it on another paper, say VFA, you can deactivate the Aurora curve
> (make a new proof if you haven't saved one) and make a new curve for
> VFA and go through the same process.  Save that curve as well (the
> idea is you only do a paper curve once - no more test prints after
> that).  Now you can print the image on either paper simply by
> activating the appropriate curve.  Sometimes with certain papers a
> print is so close to the proof you won't bother making a curve for it,
> or maybe it needs a curve with just a very tiny change (often happens
> on papers such as PR, Dourian and VFA which are close in contrast and
> density to EEM).
> 
> 
>  
> >My Aurora print is only a tad less saturated than the EEM proof.
> >Other than that I don't see much difference. 
> 
> However you define the difference is up to you.  That's where each
> photographer's unique artistry enters the mix.  The idea is that with
> the proof you have established how you want the prints to look.  The
> proof is king.  If the Aurora print doesn't look the way you want then
> you do the above procedure and make it match the proof as best you
> can.  The proof is the standard which final prints should match, no
> matter what the paper.  In reality, the various other paper attributes
> affect how a print looks and it may not be possible to get an exact
> match.  You can set your own tolerances for what degree of difference
> is acceptable.
> 
>  
> >Maybe the EEM is a bit cooler, too?
> 
> That's another matter, and with the 2400 (I think you said you use
> one) the tone can be adjusted with the ABW controls.  The purpose of
> the proof is to establish the contrast and density.  You may choose a
> particular paper for the final print for many different reasons (ink
> or paper color, texture, brightness, OBAs, etc).  
> 
> 
> This stuff always sounds more complicated when you write about it.  In
> practice it's pretty simple and intuitive.  Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Clayton
> 
> 
> Info on black and white digital printing at    
> http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm
>