Digital BW, The Print

Paul, I'd forgotten about the earlier comments here re the scuff
resistance of the Silver Rag paper! I've NEVER printed on anything
other than matte papers. I'd been using my trusty 3000 for color
printing for the past few years and I knew it couldn't handle the
Silver Rag paper. So I'd never looked at it. Maybe it's time to expand
my horizons now that I've got the R2400. I'll have to get a sample of
the Silver Rag and see how it works.

I'm assuming that your comment re the curled paper issue applies only
to the Crane Silver Rag sheets. I would be using sheets rather than
roll paper anyway.

Stiffness is another matter entirely and dealing with that may depend
on what type of binder is used.

Thanks for your comments!

Tom




--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark"
<paul.roark@...> wrote:
>
> Those new "glossy" papers like Crane Silver Rag are the most scuff
resistant
> papers I've seen, but they may be a bit stiff (and curled) for a book.
> 
>   _____  
> 
> From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Thomas
> Keesling
> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:54 AM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Digital BW] Re: 4K+ B&W inkset for 2200 and other
printers-Topkote
> for books???
> 
>  
> 
> Helen, Paul and others,
> 
> I do mostly antique photo restoration, but got a call from a former
> client who's wanting me to work with him to produce a few copies of a
> ~60-page book commemorating his deceased wife's art and crafts.
> 
> It would be color, of course and my R2400 could handle that. What
> concerns me most is paper selection and the possible need to coat the
> pages.
> 
> I know there've been discussions in the past regarding this topic
> either here or on other boards, but I don't recall seeing such
> discussions since all the new papers and K3 inks have come into the
> market.
> 
> Do any of you have any experience producing books with the newer
> papers/K3 inks? If so, did you overcoat the prints? And how have they
> held up?
> 
> Any and all thoughts/suggestions are welcome.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Thomas Keesling
> Hoosier Recollections
> Indianapolis
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhit
> <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint%40yahoogroups.com>
> eThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Helen Bach"
> <helenbach@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhit
> <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint%40yahoogroups.com>
> eThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark"
> > <paul.roark@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've loaded my 2200 with what I call the 4K+, non-blended B&W setup
> > that I'm
> > > using in my 7500. (See http://home1.
> <http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/4K+.pdf> gte.net/res09aij/4K+.pdf) 
> With 7
> > > positions available, I have the 4 Ks (MK, PK, LK and LLK) plus
> full - if
> > > light - color: LC, LM, and Y. It appears to work very well. The
> > approach
> > > requires at least a B&W rip (QTR or IJC).
> > 
> > I've been using a similar system in one of my 2200s for over a year,
> > and it does work very well. I use Epson inks from the 4000/4800 (MK)
> > 4800 (PK, LK, LLK, LC) and R800 (blue, diluted to 20% of its original
> > strength) with Krystal Topkote in the last position. I use IJC/OPM. 
> > 
> > I don't require anything warmer than the K3 inks themselves give,
> > hence the use of the LC and LB as the only toners. The blue was chosen
> > after experimenting with LM and R800 red. The R800 red worked well as
> > a warming toner, but as I said, I don't require the warm tones so I
> > removed it in favour of the Topkote.
> > 
> > I also use the Topkote for overcoating colour prints made on my colour
> > 2200. I found that it worked best as as after coat rather than as a
> > simultaneous coat with the K3 set - ie it improved DMax and shadow
> > detail separation more as a second coat than if it was applied
> > simultaneously. I apply the Topkote with the Epson driver in high
> > speed using the Watercolor paper setting. The Topkote works better
> > than the Epson glop in my R800 for overcoating UC and K3 inks.
> > 
> > I switched to the dilute blue after a few months of use - the
> > full-strength blue sometimes gave a barely perceptible dottiness when
> > used with light tones.
> > 
> > Overall I'm very pleased with the quality of the system.
> > 
> > As an aside, I'm now using a third 2200 with IJC/OPM to make negatives
> > for silver gelatin printing using Canon red dye ink in various
> > dilutions - the project I shelved to develop and refine the K3 B&W
> > system described above.
> > 
> > Best,
> > Helen
> >
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>