Digital BW, The Print

Hi Richard,

>... I use empty 2200 cartridges from MIS with their chips. ...
> 
> I must say I am a bit confused with these MIS inks, there are so many
> variation depends if it is from MISPRO, UT7, UT-3D, or color K4 set.

True.  The first thing is to separate the color from the B&W.  The color has
evolved based in part on base improvements.  The B&W has evolved based on
new printers and desires to solve the problems of past inksets and to gain
better control in profiling.  The 3D inkset, for example, was designed to
give control over the Lab A (UT7 did not), and make a space that color
profiling software would be able to profile.

> Aren't actually all Ebony inks marked as K same?

Yes.  In fact, most of the MIS color pigments are the same.  The differences
are in the PK ink loads.  The K4 has a lower load than the MIS Pro or 7600.
The 2200/2100 works well with the higher load MIS Pro or 7600.  The 2400 and
other newer printers need the K4 PK.

> 
> >>> Once you learn QTR, and it's not hard, the options are wide ranging.
> 
> One thing is not clear to me. How do I start how do I define which inks
> to be used and so on. As I would have no starting curves for QTR RIP and
> you are referring only to IJC profiles in your 4K+ pdf.

Get a copy of Tom Moore's tutorial.  In QTR go to the Curve Creator
(Tools>Curve Creation).  I'd put the inks in their "native" positions to the
extent there are such.  Then in QTR you tell the software what ink is where
-- like "gray ink" for the carbon core. I'd make a good carbon curve first.
The gray ink density will tell the software the order for partitioning.
Once you give the software the density and put in some ink limit -- such as
simply putting the place the K reaches it's dmax in as the default limit --
then push the "show curve" button and the software will automatically
partition the carbon inks. 

I tend to take manual control of the curves and make a very good (straight
line) carbon curve.  That way the toner curves are close to straight lines
to about 85%, where I turn them around to hit 0 at 100%.  You can control
the amount of toner with the ink load.  

After you do a few you'll start to develop your own style.

I'd recommend lurking on the QTR forum also.




> 
> >> Can you tell me why do you like Epson LM?
> >
> > It's more lightfast according to my tests.  It's the only position where
> > Epson beats the MIS inks.
> 
> Does it effect DMAX in some way?

No, if you put any other ink in the 100% spot, C is best, with LC maybe
being able to have some effect on the black.  In general, the MIS PKN inks I
mix do better than the straight MIS PK.  However, if you use a PKN, you
don't want it in the "Carbon Core" because it is not pure carbon.  On the
other hand, one probably could use a PKN carefully to control the tone of
the dark shadows, but it would probably have to be done manually.

> I expect you can't buy Epson LM in
> bottles so buying it in cartridges comes rather expensive. And I think I
> print rather lot.

Epson 7600 220 cc carts are a source that are much more reasonable than the
desktop carts.  Or, just use MIS LM.  It's not that big a deal.  The MIS B&W
inks with MIS LM still beat the Epson B&W printing systems in lightfastness
tests.



> 
> >> And about GLOP for mixing the other inks?
> >> Is is same as base? I have some GLOP still available.
> >
> > The newer Glop is the same as the glossy base, which MIS does not sell
> > independently, I believe.  For matte paper, the older clear base is
> fine,
> > but it bronzes badly on glossy papers.
> 
> So that means that mixed LLK+GLOP

I'd just buy the LLK in the form of bulk MIS K4 LLK.

> and LC+GLOP would reduce DMAX?

For Light Light Cyan, the Glop is a fine base.  As I noted, others might
also work.

None of these affect dmax.  Except as mentioned with respect to the PK and
PKN, any other inks in the 100% black spot usually reduce the dmax.
Profiles I make almost always pull all the other curves to zero at 100% so
that the paper can hold as much Eboni as possible.  Some people have
apparently been able on some papers to get a bit better matte dmax with a
little dark cyan added, but my experiments indicate any ink aside from Eboni
at the 100% spot will usually reduce the dmax of matte papers.

> Or they wouldn't have effect as in dark black parts of a image they will
> no be used (probably if I assume right).

Yes.

> 
> > I've successfully used a mix of 4 parts distilled water
> > to 3 parts glycerol.  It appeared to work well with as little bronzing
> as
> > I've seen in a base.  That is another possibility that might be worth
> > considering.
> 
> Hm, where you can get glycerol than? And would this be ok with 2100 or
> 2200 as well?

It's readily available from chemical companies.   Just do a search.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com