Digital BW, The Print

>  While asking about framing, what do you use for backing? I've been
>  using Bien Fang archival foam core. But I see people buying an
>  archival quality corrugated, and now a plastic product that looks
>  like corrugated. I'm interested in archival properties, structural
>  stability, cost, and ease of work.
>

Arthur,
As a framer, photographer and inkjet printer I may have some insight 
for you.

Number one. I don't like metal frames for three reasons.

1) Unless you put tape all over the back to seal the gap between 
backing and metal you will always get bugs and/or debris in the framing 
package.

2) Even heavier wider metal will flex in the middle of the long leg. 90 
% of glass replacement/repair that I do is metal frames. Often they are 
broken during moving as thus. "I was carrying this picture to the other 
room and it just exploded in my hands." This is due to the flex of the 
metal against the glass in the frame.

3) The metal clips used to hold the print in will almost always cause 
buckling and distortion of the backing material over time.

  I used to use a lot of metal and now don't use any. Sometimes my 
framing customers insist for esthetic reasons as I have wood that 
matches the price of metal. If you are going to continue - pick a 
larger metal profile to work with on this size or use acrylic. I often 
use crossing wires on the back to hold the sides together to help with 
the flex. And/or use acrylic. A large piece of broken glass is the most 
dangerous thing in my shop. Even if you have to charge a bit more, 
acrylic is a great option. It is available precut into smaller sizes 
now. It's much lighter and you won't endanger your clients.

Instead of metal clips on the perimeter I use strips of foam core or 
mat board ( whatever fills the gap the best with a bit of snugness ) 
taped into place with artists tape ( acid free ).

As far as backing you are correct to pursue something more substantial 
than 3/16s acid free foam core. At least a layer of mat board PVAed to 
the foam core will add rigidity. I would also consider 1/4 mighty core 
or gator board. While neither may be considerable "archival" by some, 
going into an open back metal frame with a cotton barrier between 
backing and art there should be no problem with off-gassing into the 
frame package.

Feel free to contact me off list as well jerry at saddletreegallery dot 
com for more questions and or sources for material.

Jerry



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