Digital BW, The Print

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "the_des_bois" 
<thedesbois@...> wrote:
>
> 
> > With a magnifying glass you can still see occasional 
> > microbanding on most printers.  But they keep getting 
> > better, and most don't look at prints with a microscope.
> 
> I find that with an R1800 with 3MK I sometimes get micro-banding on
> certain papers while the same image on another one will not have it.

> Could it be related to different dot gains on different coatings? 

Could be.  I'm sure there are lots of variables.  I suspect that the 
head alignment is also optimized for a specific thickness.

The only place I have a problem is within one inch of the top and 
bottom edges of the paper.  So, I usually print with wide margins.


> 
> > 
> > Yes, but what MIS calls "UC Base" is the better way to go 
> > because it has more glycerol in it, which will help keep
> > the pads moist.  I now use my C6 base for this purpose.  
> > See the "clear base" formula at 
> > http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf 

 
> Could one use MIS "UC Base" as a base to dilute MIS MK Eboni?

I tried it.  Don't bother.  It's rough printing, very warm, and has 
too low a specific gravity.  Don't bother with Glop either.  It's 
great for the UT type inks and MIS color pigments, but not Eboni.

UC base is not what is used in the R1800 color inks.  MIS sells it as 
a dilutant for those inks, but it's the wrong one.  Among other 
things the bronzing is terrible with it.  Glop is the best thing to 
use for UT and MIS color pigments, but, again, not Eboni.  Finding 
the best base for Eboni was a major part of the Eboni-6 effort, and 
MIS will not sell the base we found that works.  For 3.5 pico liter 
printers, however, Carbon-6 and its generic base works fine.

Paul  
www.PaulRoark.com