--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "pr_roark" <pr_roark@...> wrote: > > Whether its "worth" dealing with third party inks depends a lot on one's interests and criteria. For me, the OEM approaches are not worth it. But I have several personal goals that push me in the directions I go. Some are quality related, but one is simply taking the road less traveled. > > The OEM entrance into the B&W field with K3 systems, I assume, took most of the market, and I'm sure most people are perfectly satisfied with the results. But the dedicated B&W approaches continue to serve several significant market segments. > > The inksets I've designed, some of which are sold by MIS (no royalties to me -- I'm just a customer) serve several different market segments and personal goals. At one end and as a matter of principle, I want those on restricted budgets to have excellent B&W, easily, and at very low cost. The C88+ "EZ" system is at this end of the spectrum. Yet the C88+ with the 100% carbon inks can produce a print that I believe to be more stable than anything the OEM systems can produce. > > The UT14 was aimed at making a variable tone inkset that could print on matte and glossy paper without changing inks, giving people who are interested in exploring B&W more seriously a very affordable 13" platform to easily experiment with different tones and papers. It's what I think of as today's version of the UT2 which was made for the 1280. Yet on my 1400, I have not run UT14 for quite some time. I use an inkset on the 1400 that serves the specific needs that I have. > (See http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Eb1400.pdf) > > > My personal B&W fine art printing, such as I was doing all day on an old 7500, is strictly 100% carbon -- Eboni-6 or Carbon-6. In part as a matter of principal, I simply will not have color inks in my workflow any more. For most people the color inks in the "Advanced B&W" mode will probably never be of any consequence, but I don't want them in my work for a number of reasons. > > The Eboni-6 or Carbon-6 inksets I use do have some quirks that make them more touchy in some respects, but less so in others. One size does not fit all. > > I recently purchased a used 7800 and fully intend to use that platform for 100% carbon printing -- likely with a home made (dirt cheap) CIS (positive air pressure should make CISs work better easier). So, between a user-made CIS and user mixed inks, the used K3 (and K2, maybe without the CIS) printers should be able to make B&W prints at a fraction the cost of the 7900, and they should have un-paralleled image stability. > > I'm hopeful that the 8 carbon inks and QTR will allow me to print on Arches uncoated watercolor paper more smoothly and with a better dmax than the OEM approaches, and 100% carbon on Arches is about as close to my "carbon on cotton" ideal medium as I think I can get. (And it's going to be a lot of fun exploring tinting & painting with watercolors with my painter as well as photographer friends.) > > So, it's clearly "worth it" to me to do what I do, and the OEM approaches are not "worth it" -- to me. > > I hesitate to recommend what I do to others. I'm just pursuing my particular ideals and goals, and having too many follow me on the road less traveled is not necessarily a positive result, but I will nonetheless make what I come up with public. I think it advances the medium and its acceptance, and that does help me. > > Paul > www.PaulRoark.com > I have been following Paul's black and white odeyssey a while now and wholeheartedly agree with his ideals and goals. I am committed to pure Carbon black printing on archival, pure cotton papers with no brightening agents added. I use a C88+ with Eboni MK at 100% in the K position and diluted to 2%, 40%, and 15% in the C, M, Y positions respectively. For dilutions, I use the generic base described by Paul at his website. The paper is Arches hot pressed watercolour (smooth) that I buy from an arts store as large sheets for around $5 per sheet, and cut to size (C88+ can print upto 8.5" x 44"). For software I use Gutenprint with Cinepaint (16 bit printing) on NetBSD, or home-made ACV curves on CS4 to adjust ink densities with the help of an X-rite 880 colour-densitometer. Gutenprint gives me complete control over ink mappings at the nozzle level (which can get a bit messy if you make a mistake!). The matte only prints I get are quite satisfactory with subtle tone differences depending on how I partition the the three dilutions. I just bought an R1900 from Epson refurbished and am in the process of replacing all the eight carts with generic Hong Kong carts and pure carbon ink at various dilutions - am debating whether to put eight dilutions for matte only or maybe put a couple for glossy along with the rest for glossy/matte. I got inspired by Paul's adventures in pure carbon printing, so I say, thank you Paul and don't stop! Unny
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Re: Dedicatd B&W printer - is it worth it?
2009-09-08 by unnytg
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