Digital BW, The Print

Thanks, Pete:

I take it that the lid of the scanner contains the light source, the bed 
is clear glass & the scanning lens move underneath... is this correct? 
Not that I'm interested, but this sounds like it works for 
transparencies & negs, not opaque material like prints. How does the 
scanner handle these?

Don't the PrintFile pages reduce sharpness and/or cut down on the 
density range of the negs?

Also, from my attempts to work with another scanner and some very curly 
film, putting a sheet of glass on top produced Newton rings rendering 
the scans unusable. I didn't try glass over PrintFile, though.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond at length!

Peter Marshall wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I make 'contact sheets' on a V750 by putting the negs in their 
> transparent filing sheet directly on the glass bed, with the 8x10 film 
> area guide (210x257mm) in place. Depending on the type of filing sheet 
> you can scan 4 or 5 rows of 6 or 7 rows of 5 at a time. Most of my negs 
> are in strips of 6, and I usually scan the top 4 rows, then scan the 
> bottom 4 (which means I'm scanning the middle of the 7 rows twice, but 
> saves having to alter the scanner settings.) Not having to take the 
> strips out and fit them into a frame is an incredible time saver, as 
> well as reducing the handling risk to negs.
>
> (It would be possible to scan a whole film at a time - 6 strips of 6 - 
> just as I used to print them on 8x10 paper - by putting the strips 
> directly onto the glass bed and putting a glass sheet on top of them, 
> but too time-consuming. I used to make contacts in the darkroom before 
> putting them in the filing sheets and would probably try working that 
> way on the scanner with newly processed films.)
>
> I scan into Photoshop, then having dealt with a dozen filing sheets or 
> so I join up the pairs of scans to give the full sheet for each film - 
> not really necessary but only takes a few clicks to copy one, increase 
> the canvas size on the second, paste, position, flatten and then save - 
> using the film reference number.
>
> The Epson software is fast and does a reasonable job for the scanning at 
> 600dpi which gives me a decent size image to look at on screen if I want 
> to zoom into a frame. Mostly the sheets lay flat enough - I thought I 
> would need a sheet of glass on top, but most seem ok without. It takes a 
> little while to adjust the histogram - setting the film base to be very 
> close to black and the densest parts of the negs to white - largely 
> because the software was written by someone who didn't understand what 
> it should do. But if your exposure and dev were consistent you won't 
> need to alter it. Colour film is a little trickier as colour balance 
> also has to be set, but for b/w its best to scan as grayscale.
>
> It should work with any scanner that says it can handle 8x10 film, not 
> just the V700/750.
>
> If I want to make a print I use a neg scanner on the particular frame, 
> but the contacts don't need to be clean to do the job, though I give the 
> filing sheets and glass a wipe with an anti-static cloth.
>
> Peter Marshall    -    Photographer, Writer: NUJ
> petermarshall@...     _________________________________________________________________
>   
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>
>
> Lew wrote:
>   
>> The 700/750 can do a max of 24 35mm frames at a time (4 strips of 6 
>> frames each). I have years of 36 exposure rolls to do.
>>
>> steve wrote:
>>   
>>     
>>> I use a Epson 4990. The model has been replaced by the 700/750 (more expensive). The Epson 600 would work but won't do a whole roll at once.
>>>
>>> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Lew <lew1716@...> wrote:
>>>   
>>>     
>>>       
>>>> Ok, newbie here. What equipment do I need to scan an entire roll of bw 
>>>> (35mm or 120) into a digital proof sheet, similar to wet darkroom 
>>>> contact sheets?
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>         
>
>
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