Yahoo Groups archive
Thread
2011-05-28 by Susan Koons
I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan
2011-05-28 by tboleyyh
actually William Turner is not as warm as many other papers available, though there are few that are really significantly warmish. I'd suggest Bamboo, and am continually impressed with the performance of the paper and the appeal of the prints. But being from the same manufacturer as William Turner, you may not find it much more economical. Interestingly, some of the newest "warm" papers like the Epson naturals actually cool off the inks many of us use for B&W. So even if you have a warmish paper base, your image time may go cooler. For more economical papers, I'd look at the non brightened Moab naturals perhaps and if you don't mind some image cooling, the Premier Art naturals. Tyler --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@...> wrote:
> > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan >
2011-05-28 by edward wiseman
I suggest you try this one..Aurora Natural from Red River! http://www.redrivercatalog.com/browse/auroranatural.html I use it my my 1400 with MIS UT-14 inks..a VERY nice cotton paper at any price IMHO! Eddie
----- Original Message -----
From: Susan Koons
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 12:37 PM
Subject: [Digital BW] warm tone papers
I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-05-28 by Susan Koons
thanks for the tip I just tried Hawk Mountain Sarpwing and Broadwing. they are warm like I was looking for. I don't know if long term they are compatible with the inks as they are resin coated. --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "tboleyyh" <tyler@...> wrote:
> > actually William Turner is not as warm as many other papers available, though there are few that are really significantly warmish. I'd suggest Bamboo, and am continually impressed with the performance of the paper and the appeal of the prints. But being from the same manufacturer as William Turner, you may not find it much more economical. Interestingly, some of the newest "warm" papers like the Epson naturals actually cool off the inks many of us use for B&W. So even if you have a warmish paper base, your image time may go cooler. > For more economical papers, I'd look at the non brightened Moab naturals perhaps and if you don't mind some image cooling, the Premier Art naturals. > Tyler > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan > > >
2011-05-28 by shileshjani
Susan, I agree with what Tyler says - and William Turner is a gorgeous paper, but need careful handling. As he said, it is really not a warm paper, but rather quite close to nuetral. Let us know if you want numerical values of paper whitness. Having said that, William Turner prints much warmer than some other papers that have a warmer paper base. It remains one of my all time favorite papers. With MIS Eboni black, it will also print deeper blacks than most other paper options. I have received one very beautiful print made on a 1400 with Eboni 6 inks on Epson Hot Press Natural. It was not as warm as I would expect William Turner to be, but the overall harmony between paper and inks was just beautiful. Perhaps Epson COLD Press Natural may do the trick if you want textured paper. The black density almost matches that of William Turner. There are really no cheap options, unless you are willing to compromise something. Hope this helps. Shilesh --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "tboleyyh" <tyler@...> wrote:
> > actually William Turner is not as warm as many other papers available, though there are few that are really significantly warmish. I'd suggest Bamboo, and am continually impressed with the performance of the paper and the appeal of the prints. But being from the same manufacturer as William Turner, you may not find it much more economical. Interestingly, some of the newest "warm" papers like the Epson naturals actually cool off the inks many of us use for B&W. So even if you have a warmish paper base, your image time may go cooler. > For more economical papers, I'd look at the non brightened Moab naturals perhaps and if you don't mind some image cooling, the Premier Art naturals. > Tyler > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan > > >
2011-05-28 by Susan Koons
I will be receiving epson's HP natural next week, I don't think I want the texture of cold press, which another reason for something besides william turner. I may try the sample pack which contains bamboo and turner. thanks Dan --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "shileshjani" <janishilesh@...> wrote:
> > Susan, > > I agree with what Tyler says - and William Turner is a gorgeous paper, but need careful handling. As he said, it is really not a warm paper, but rather quite close to nuetral. Let us know if you want numerical values of paper whitness. > > Having said that, William Turner prints much warmer than some other papers that have a warmer paper base. It remains one of my all time favorite papers. With MIS Eboni black, it will also print deeper blacks than most other paper options. > > I have received one very beautiful print made on a 1400 with Eboni 6 inks on Epson Hot Press Natural. It was not as warm as I would expect William Turner to be, but the overall harmony between paper and inks was just beautiful. Perhaps Epson COLD Press Natural may do the trick if you want textured paper. The black density almost matches that of William Turner. > > There are really no cheap options, unless you are willing to compromise something. Hope this helps. > > Shilesh > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "tboleyyh" <tyler@> wrote: > > > > actually William Turner is not as warm as many other papers available, though there are few that are really significantly warmish. I'd suggest Bamboo, and am continually impressed with the performance of the paper and the appeal of the prints. But being from the same manufacturer as William Turner, you may not find it much more economical. Interestingly, some of the newest "warm" papers like the Epson naturals actually cool off the inks many of us use for B&W. So even if you have a warmish paper base, your image time may go cooler. > > For more economical papers, I'd look at the non brightened Moab naturals perhaps and if you don't mind some image cooling, the Premier Art naturals. > > Tyler > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > > > > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan > > > > > >
2011-05-28 by shileshjani
Susan, That is good - you may find Eb6 and Epson Natural a good match. If you are into numbers, the maximum b value I measured on this combination print was approximately 4.5, which is warm, but certainly not into the brown sepia color. The Dmax I get with Eboni K and Epson Hot Press is somewhere in the 1.7+ range, which is among the higher values in today's matte paper/ink combinations. So if you like the "look" of this combination, you can rest assured that you are not making technical compromises. I must say that this combination is one of the more pleasing paper/ink combinations I have seen recently. Made me envious, actually. Shilesh --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@...> wrote:
> > I will be receiving epson's HP natural next week, I don't think I want the texture of cold press, which another reason for something besides william turner. I may try the sample pack which contains bamboo and turner. thanks Dan > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "shileshjani" <janishilesh@> wrote: > > > > Susan, > > > > I agree with what Tyler says - and William Turner is a gorgeous paper, but need careful handling. As he said, it is really not a warm paper, but rather quite close to nuetral. Let us know if you want numerical values of paper whitness. > > > > Having said that, William Turner prints much warmer than some other papers that have a warmer paper base. It remains one of my all time favorite papers. With MIS Eboni black, it will also print deeper blacks than most other paper options. > > > > I have received one very beautiful print made on a 1400 with Eboni 6 inks on Epson Hot Press Natural. It was not as warm as I would expect William Turner to be, but the overall harmony between paper and inks was just beautiful. Perhaps Epson COLD Press Natural may do the trick if you want textured paper. The black density almost matches that of William Turner. > > > > There are really no cheap options, unless you are willing to compromise something. Hope this helps. > > > > Shilesh > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "tboleyyh" <tyler@> wrote: > > > > > > actually William Turner is not as warm as many other papers available, though there are few that are really significantly warmish. I'd suggest Bamboo, and am continually impressed with the performance of the paper and the appeal of the prints. But being from the same manufacturer as William Turner, you may not find it much more economical. Interestingly, some of the newest "warm" papers like the Epson naturals actually cool off the inks many of us use for B&W. So even if you have a warmish paper base, your image time may go cooler. > > > For more economical papers, I'd look at the non brightened Moab naturals perhaps and if you don't mind some image cooling, the Premier Art naturals. > > > Tyler > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > > > > > > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan > > > > > > > > > >
2011-05-29 by David Kachel
>>> I just tried Hawk Mountain Sarpwing and Broadwing. they are warm like I was looking for. I don't know if long term they are compatible with the inks as they are resin coated. If you value your prints and want them to last more than a handful of years at most, do not use resin coated papers. Both the manufacturers and lots of hobby users will swear that the problems of RC papers have been conquered. They have not. David Kachel ___________________ Artist-Photographer Fine B&W Photographs www.davidkachel.com david@... Gallery: www.reddoorfinephotographs.com director@... PO Box 1893 Alpine, TX 79831 (432) 386-5787 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-05-29 by faeofavalon
I agree about the Bamboo paper. It is very affordable and is not resin coated. There is a little softness to the imagery in a gorgeous way as well :) -AnnMarie --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@...> wrote:
> > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan >
2011-05-29 by Ernst Dinkla
On 05/29/2011 03:02 AM, David Kachel wrote: >>>> I just tried Hawk Mountain Sarpwing and Broadwing. they are warm like I was > looking for. I don't know if long term they are compatible with the inks as they > are resin coated. > > > If you value your prints and want them to last more than a handful of years > at most, do not use resin coated papers. Both the manufacturers and lots of > hobby users will swear that the problems of RC papers have been conquered. > They have not. > > > David Kachel Could you give more information on what is bad in today's inkjet RC papers? Any reference to recent tests? I have been looking for that kind of information over the last 5 years. -- Met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Try: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Wide_Inkjet_Printers/ | Dinkla Grafische Techniek | | www.pigment-print.com | | ( unvollendet ) |
2011-05-29 by Susan Koons
I looked that one up and it does have a good price. thank you Dan --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "edward wiseman" <pahts@...> wrote:
> > I suggest you try this one..Aurora Natural from Red River! > > http://www.redrivercatalog.com/browse/auroranatural.html > > I use it my my 1400 with MIS UT-14 inks..a VERY nice cotton paper at any price IMHO! > > Eddie > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Susan Koons > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 12:37 PM > Subject: [Digital BW] warm tone papers > > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2011-05-29 by David Kachel
I use this paper and like it a lot. However, it has a serious flaw IF you use an HP B9180 printer. Contact me if you do and I will tell you how to solve the problem. David Kachel ___________________ Artist-Photographer Fine B&W Photographs www.davidkachel.com david@... Gallery: www.reddoorfinephotographs.com director@... PO Box 1893 Alpine, TX 79831 (432) 386-5787 >>> > I suggest you try this one..Aurora Natural from Red River! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-05-29 by David Kachel
>>> Could you give more information on what is bad in today's inkjet RC papers? Any reference to recent tests? I have been looking for that kind of information over the last 5 years. These papers appeared in the early 1970's as an attempt to shorten processing times for analog photographic papers. The early ones lasted only weeks before yellowing and cracking. The latest may last a few years if you are lucky. Some test prints made for me a few years ago on an Epson printer were yellowed and cracked within two years. (The store was demonstrating image quality, not paper quality.) A plastic coated paper has no possible benefit if you are not printing a wet process image on it and only the faster processing if you do. In addition, they look awful compared to "real" papers. I guarantee you that you can find all the people you want to tell you they are "OK" and all the problems have been solved. If there is any "proof" that the latest plastic paper released last Tuesday is bad too, I don't know about it and wouldn't look at it if I did. From the very beginning the manufacturers have always said the papers are just fine BUT, they are working on fixing the problems. Here's the way to approach this: Assume all the problems with RC papers have been fixed. Bottom line; there are gorgeous cotton and fiber papers out there that will last for centuries and run circles around RC papers visually. So the only reason to use RC papers is because they are cheaper. I call them trash papers and keep some around for making throw away prints. I would never even consider selling someone a fine art print on RC paper. David Kachel ___________________ Artist-Photographer Fine B&W Photographs www.davidkachel.com david@... Gallery: www.reddoorfinephotographs.com director@reddoorfinephotographs.com PO Box 1893 Alpine, TX 79831 (432) 386-5787 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-05-29 by Ernst Dinkla
On 05/29/2011 04:12 PM, David Kachel wrote: >>>> Could you give more information on what is bad in today's inkjet RC > papers? Any reference to recent tests? I have been looking for that > kind of information over the last 5 years. > > These papers appeared in the early 1970's as an attempt to shorten > processing times for analog photographic papers. > The early ones lasted only weeks before yellowing and cracking. The latest > may last a few years if you are lucky. Some test prints made for me a few > years ago on an Epson printer were yellowed and cracked within two years. > (The store was demonstrating image quality, not paper quality.) > > A plastic coated paper has no possible benefit if you are not printing a wet > process image on it and only the faster processing if you do. In addition, > they look awful compared to "real" papers. > > I guarantee you that you can find all the people you want to tell you they > are "OK" and all the problems have been solved. If there is any "proof" that > the latest plastic paper released last Tuesday is bad too, I don't know > about it and wouldn't look at it if I did. From the very beginning the > manufacturers have always said the papers are just fine\ufffd BUT, they are > working on fixing the problems. > > Here's the way to approach this: Assume all the problems with RC papers have > been fixed. Bottom line; there are gorgeous cotton and fiber papers out > there that will last for centuries and run circles around RC papers > visually. So the only reason to use RC papers is because they are cheaper. > > I call them trash papers and keep some around for making throw away prints. > I would never even consider selling someone a fine art print on RC paper. > > > David Kachel I have Henry Wilhelm's book "The permanence and care etc" and know the stories on RC papers as used in the analogue period, Color and B&W. That information is old hat in my opinion, nice to know how bad it was, how bad it can be, but not the last word on the properties of today's RC inkjet papers. Your optimism about all the aspects of cotton and fiber papers is not shared by me while I have printed a lot with good inks on cotton, fiber, baryta papers. There are enough jobs/purposes where good RC papers function better and last longer with properties like good ink fade resistance, tear strength, humidity resistance, coating abrasion resistance at printing time and in handling later on. The dynamic range and gamut can be up to the best non-RC gloss papers. I have not seen alarming reports describing RC barrier cracking or delamination of inkjet RC papers while they usually get rougher treatment. They have been in use for about 15 years now in the inkjet industry. The Baryta and Fiber inkjet papers not 5 years yet and their usual destination is behind glass so for a protected life. I did read about Baryta coating cracks, paper transport artefacts, etc. In general there is no "arty" inkjet print around older than 30 years and the inkjet prints made before 1995 are not exactly champions in archival qualities. So I do not share your opinion on them. If you had good references to tests that proved your opinion is right I would have welcomed that but there still is that question for me: "what is actually wrong with inkjet RC papers". I have printed on cotton and alpha-cellulose papers since the early 70's; silkscreen, lithography etc. for artists so I know what a nice paper can be, what artists like in a paper and I share some of those feelings. However I would not reject RC papers just for the "RC" content. -- Met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Try: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Wide_Inkjet_Printers/ | Dinkla Grafische Techniek | | www.pigment-print.com | | ( unvollendet ) |
2011-05-30 by Susan Koons
Thank you for the input on warm tone papers. I am guessing that like the wet darkroom, everyone finds a few favorite papers and uses them as a base and then drives themselves nuts looking into all the available options! thank you again Dan --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@...> wrote:
> > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400.From what I have read the Hahnemuhle William Turner is warm,but, I would like something more affordable. Any suggestions? thanks dan >
2011-05-30 by Paul
"Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400... By the way, if you like very warm print tones, the MIS PK, LK, and LLK inks (glossy compatible carbons) are warmer than Eboni-6. I'm printing sepia tone images with these on Museo Silver Rag. On matte paper then are not that warm, but noticeably warmer than Eboni-based inks. Paul www.PaulRoark.com
2011-05-30 by Susan Koons
Paul, are these the UT14 inks, or are they different? I have been happy with the Ebony prints, I choose E6 based on what I perceived as reduced clogging issues. thanks Dan --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <roark.paul@...> wrote:
> > > "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400... > > > By the way, if you like very warm print tones, the MIS PK, LK, and LLK inks (glossy compatible carbons) are warmer than Eboni-6. I'm printing sepia tone images with these on Museo Silver Rag. On matte paper then are not that warm, but noticeably warmer than Eboni-based inks. > > Paul > www.PaulRoark.com >
2011-05-31 by Paul
> Paul, are these the UT14 inks, or are they different? I have been happy with the Ebony prints, I choose E6 based on what I perceived as reduced clogging issues. thanks Dan The UT14 warm M and LM are MIS PK and LK. MIS has a number of these warmer, glossy-compatible carbon inks. I've been printing with MIS PK, LK and LLK in my 7800, fulfilling orders of sepia tone carbon pigment prints from the museum restoration show I had here. For that use, it's outstanding. For landscapes, I prefer a neutral look. Eboni MK is the only way to get there with 100% carbon currently. So, Eboni-6 (or the "Eboni-4" subset) have top priority for me. Eboni-6 dilutions have been very good at avoiding clogs. That's another reason to use them. Paul www.PaulRoark.com
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <roark.paul@> wrote: > > > > > > "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > > > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400... > > > > > > By the way, if you like very warm print tones, the MIS PK, LK, and LLK inks (glossy compatible carbons) are warmer than Eboni-6. I'm printing sepia tone images with these on Museo Silver Rag. On matte paper then are not that warm, but noticeably warmer than Eboni-based inks. > > > > Paul > > www.PaulRoark.com > > >
2011-09-12 by Susan Koons
I was going to order the warm toned M and LM UT14 inks for the 1400 printer, but realized I didn't really know which carts they replace on the E6 system. Is in M and LM slots on the E6? --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <roark.paul@...> wrote:
> > > > Paul, are these the UT14 inks, or are they different? I have been happy with the Ebony prints, I choose E6 based on what I perceived as reduced clogging issues. thanks Dan > > > The UT14 warm M and LM are MIS PK and LK. MIS has a number of these warmer, glossy-compatible carbon inks. > > I've been printing with MIS PK, LK and LLK in my 7800, fulfilling orders of sepia tone carbon pigment prints from the museum restoration show I had here. For that use, it's outstanding. > > For landscapes, I prefer a neutral look. Eboni MK is the only way to get there with 100% carbon currently. So, Eboni-6 (or the "Eboni-4" subset) have top priority for me. Eboni-6 dilutions have been very good at avoiding clogs. That's another reason to use them. > > Paul > www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <roark.paul@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > > > > > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400... > > > > > > > > > By the way, if you like very warm print tones, the MIS PK, LK, and LLK inks (glossy compatible carbons) are warmer than Eboni-6. I'm printing sepia tone images with these on Museo Silver Rag. On matte paper then are not that warm, but noticeably warmer than Eboni-based inks. > > > > > > Paul > > > www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > >
2011-09-13 by Paul
They are not exact replacments for any Eb6 inks, but you can probably put them in the M and Lm spots so that the chips will work. They are darker, so the Epson driver by itself will be closer to linear without an additional curve or icc. Paul Www.paulroark.com --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@...> wrote:
> > > I was going to order the warm toned M and LM UT14 inks for the 1400 printer, but realized I didn't really know which carts they replace on the E6 system. Is in M and LM slots on the E6? > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <roark.paul@> wrote: > > > > > > > Paul, are these the UT14 inks, or are they different? I have been happy with the Ebony prints, I choose E6 based on what I perceived as reduced clogging issues. thanks Dan > > > > > > The UT14 warm M and LM are MIS PK and LK. MIS has a number of these warmer, glossy-compatible carbon inks. > > > > I've been printing with MIS PK, LK and LLK in my 7800, fulfilling orders of sepia tone carbon pigment prints from the museum restoration show I had here. For that use, it's outstanding. > > > > For landscapes, I prefer a neutral look. Eboni MK is the only way to get there with 100% carbon currently. So, Eboni-6 (or the "Eboni-4" subset) have top priority for me. Eboni-6 dilutions have been very good at avoiding clogs. That's another reason to use them. > > > > Paul > > www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <roark.paul@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > "Susan Koons" <hackberrytree@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > I am looking for papers that are warm toned. I am using Eboni 6 inks with an Epson 1400... > > > > > > > > > > > > By the way, if you like very warm print tones, the MIS PK, LK, and LLK inks (glossy compatible carbons) are warmer than Eboni-6. I'm printing sepia tone images with these on Museo Silver Rag. On matte paper then are not that warm, but noticeably warmer than Eboni-based inks. > > > > > > > > Paul > > > > www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > > > > > >
2011-10-17 by Ernst Dinkla
Given its price and the dual sided coating it might be a paper that I could use for books. My inksets here are all based on the HP Vivera, from the Z3200, Z3100, B9180 to the custom B&W set in the HP Officejet K5400. The paper has much in favour: the white showed a minimal shift in Aardenburg's testing. It is a quite neutral white to start with and the shift is towards neutral. It is smooth enough and with a measured 230 gsm the opacity is sufficient. That it is a rag is a bonus. Even imported to Europe this might still be a cheap paper. Are both sides printing an equal image quality? The 24" rolls are on a 3"core yet I see some messages that mention a strong curl, more info on that? SpectrumViz has been extended with the Canon US inkjet paper catalog: http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm -- Met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Try: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Wide_Inkjet_Printers/ | Dinkla Grafische Techniek | | www.pigment-print.com | | ( unvollendet ) |
2011-10-17 by David Kachel
>>> Given its price and the dual sided coating it might be a paper that I could use for books. A warning about RR Aurora paper and the B9180 (and presumably the other HP printers as well, but I haven't used them) This paper is not sufficiently dry when the ink hits the rollers. Therefore prints comes out of the printer with thin, semi-glossy smudge lines along the length of your matte surface paper. (View the paper at a sharp angle.) It took me two years to solve this problem: Stand in front of your printer with a hair dryer at low temperature, but high/higher force, blow air over the top of the paper surface, back and forth across the front of the printer, from start to finish. This is tedious but solves the problem completely. Red River told me they would look into this problem. They never did. HP of course, doesn't care. David Kachel ___________________ Artist-Photographer Fine B&W Photographs www.davidkachel.com david@... Gallery: www.reddoorfinephotographs.com director@... PO Box 1893 Alpine, TX 79831 (432) 386-5787 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-10-18 by Ernst Dinkla
On 10/17/2011 10:10 PM, David Kachel wrote: > This paper is not sufficiently dry when the ink hits the rollers. Therefore > prints comes out of the printer with thin, semi-glossy smudge lines along > the length of your matte surface paper. (View the paper at a sharp angle.) > It took me two years to solve this problem: > Stand in front of your printer with a hair dryer at low temperature, but > high/higher force, blow air over the top of the paper surface, back and > forth across the front of the printer, from start to finish. This is tedious > but solves the problem completely. > David Kachel I checked your comment on that some weeks ago. On the samples I printed I do not see it, not on the Zs or the B. On the B9180 there are star wheel after the printing phase and I do not see how they could do the harm if they still roll. The pinch wheels on the paper transport roll could damage the surface like they did on the Z3100's but that happens before the printing phase if the low paper tray is used. They touch the leading edge of the paper twice if the upper paper insert is used. Anyway I think I can handle that issue. Exchanging the pinch wheels with softer versions (Z3100 solution) may even be possible. The curl and the quality of both sides of the paper is my main concern right now. I have not used the rolls. -- Met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Try: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Wide_Inkjet_Printers/ | Dinkla Grafische Techniek | | www.pigment-print.com | | ( unvollendet ) |
2011-10-18 by wfoscari
I've used this paper quite a bit, in roll and sheet. I never had a big problem with curls but I was never able to get the dmax over the mid 1.50s (with MIS ebony). I gave up and now use entrada most of the time. Dario --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Ernst Dinkla <edinkla@...> wrote:
> > On 10/17/2011 10:10 PM, David Kachel wrote: > > > This paper is not sufficiently dry when the ink hits the rollers. Therefore > > prints comes out of the printer with thin, semi-glossy smudge lines along > > the length of your matte surface paper. (View the paper at a sharp angle.) > > It took me two years to solve this problem: > > Stand in front of your printer with a hair dryer at low temperature, but > > high/higher force, blow air over the top of the paper surface, back and > > forth across the front of the printer, from start to finish. This is tedious > > but solves the problem completely. > > > David Kachel > > I checked your comment on that some weeks ago. On the samples I printed > I do not see it, not on the Zs or the B. > On the B9180 there are star wheel after the printing phase and I do not > see how they could do the harm if they still roll. The pinch wheels on > the paper transport roll could damage the surface like they did on the > Z3100's but that happens before the printing phase if the low paper tray > is used. They touch the leading edge of the paper twice if the upper > paper insert is used. Anyway I think I can handle that issue. Exchanging > the pinch wheels with softer versions (Z3100 solution) may even be possible. > > The curl and the quality of both sides of the paper is my main concern > right now. I have not used the rolls. > > > -- > Met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst > > Try: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Wide_Inkjet_Printers/ > > | Dinkla Grafische Techniek | > | www.pigment-print.com | > | ( unvollendet ) | >