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UT-14 to Eboni-6

UT-14 to Eboni-6

2012-09-10 by remononaz1

I am considereing moving from UT-14 to Ebony 6 for non-glossy black and white prints. A review of the two ink sets shows the following ink descriptions:

Eboni-6
K = Eboni (The standard MIS Associates carbon matte black ink) - use UT-14 K
C = EB6C (30% Eboni, similar in density to the standard MIS UT dark gray density) 
LC = EB6LC (9% Eboni, similar in density to the MIS UT Light Carbon density) 
M = EB6M (18% Eboni, similar in density to standard LK) 
LM = EB6LM (6% Eboni, similar in density to standard LLK) 
Y = EB6Y (2% Eboni, a very light "LLLK")


UT-14
K (black) position = Eboni matte black (MK)
Cyan position = Neutral-cool Photo Black (PKn, a blend of 60% carbon, 
40% color pigments)
LC = Neutral-cool Light Black (LKn, 30% UT14-C, 70% clear base)
M = MIS K4-Photo black, (PK, 100% carbon and warm)
LM = MIS K4-LK (100% warm carbon)
Y = Gloss Optimizer ("Glop")

Naturally, I would like to re-use as much of my existing material as I can. I have the PR Clearbase, plenty of Eboni black and some spare carts on hand. 

It looks like the E6 Cyan postion and the UT-14 Light Cyan are the same. Will the printer detect and reject a LC cart if I put it in the C position? The other four positions are just further dilutions, which I can make from the Eboni and clear base. What are 'standard LK' and 'standard LLK'? Is this a reference to the 2K2LK ink combination? (Which is not Eboni.)

Instructions for the Eboni-6 note that the parking pad should be cleaned between use with dye in and the E6 ink. I never had any issues with UT-14, in fact, the move from color dies to UT-14 is utra simple; load carts, let the printer do its head cleaning process, do a nozzle check and start printing. How serious are the cleaning requirements with the E6 ink?

Re: [Digital BW] UT-14 to Eboni-6

2012-09-10 by Paul Roark

remononaz1 <homershannon@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> I am considereing moving from UT-14 to Ebony 6 for non-glossy black and
> white prints. A review of the two ink sets shows the following ink
> descriptions:
>
> Eboni-6
> K = Eboni (The standard MIS Associates carbon matte black ink) - use UT-14
> K
> C = EB6C (30% Eboni, similar in density to the standard MIS UT dark gray
> density)
> LC = EB6LC (9% Eboni, similar in density to the MIS UT Light Carbon
> density)
> M = EB6M (18% Eboni, similar in density to standard LK)
> LM = EB6LM (6% Eboni, similar in density to standard LLK)
> Y = EB6Y (2% Eboni, a very light "LLLK")
>

That looks like wording from an older version of the PDF.  You might want
to be sure you have the latest http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Eboni-6.pdf


> ... I have the PR Clearbase, plenty of Eboni black and some spare carts on
> hand.
>
> It looks like the E6 Cyan postion and the UT-14 Light Cyan are the same.
>

No, they use different carbons.  The UT14 midtone carbons are the MIS
glossy carbon, which is much warmer than Eboni-based carbons on all inkjet
papers.


 The other four positions are just further dilutions, which I can make from
> the Eboni and clear base.
>
Yes.  See http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for more on ink
mixing.  The PDF also has the MIS links for the various clear bases.  Be
sure you have the correct clear base.  Don't use C6A in a 1400 for
printing.  That original mix used only Photo Flo for a surfactant/wetting
agent, worked find in my old 7500, but is not up to the 1400's 1.5 pl drop
size head.  C6B works fine for most papers.  C6C is recommended only if you
are going to print on Arches uncoated watercolor paper, although it works
just as well as C6B for all matte papers also.

What are 'standard LK' and 'standard LLK'?
>

That refers to MIS's color UC replacement inkset - MIS K4.  So, they would
be MIS K4-LK and K4-LLK.  They are the warmer, glossy carbons.


Is this a reference to the 2K2LK ink combination? (Which is not Eboni.)
>

No.  The 2K2LK inkset is a dye inkset -- very different; excellent for high
gloss but not in the same league as Eboni-6 for archival fine art.  The dye
inkset uses the Claria/Noritsu dyes plus a clear dye base (which MIS also
sells).  See http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/1400-Claria-Noritsu-2K2LK.pdf for
more information on this dye inkset.



> Instructions for the Eboni-6 note that the parking pad should be cleaned
> between use with dye in and the E6 ink.
>

You can ignore this with respect to my generic base.  The apparent
incompatibility is between MIS's Eboni-6 dilution base and Epson UC inks.
 (Note that Eboni MK is not incompatible with the Epson UC inks.  It's the
MIS Eboni-6 dilution base that may be an issue.)

... the move from color dies to UT-14 is utra simple; load carts, let the
> printer do its head cleaning process, do a nozzle check and start printing.
> How serious are the cleaning requirements with the E6 ink?
>
>
> It's just as simple with the move to Eboni-6 in a 1400.  I have run
Eboni-6, Claria, and MIS glossy pigs (like UT14) in the same 1400 with no
problems.  I do think printing a few purge patterns, in addition to the
usual cleaning pattern the printer will run, helps flush the residual inks
out of the head.

Good luck with Eboni/Carbon-6.  Do try the Epson Hot Press (Bright and
Natural) as well as Premier Art Smooth BW if you like relatively neutral
tones.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com


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Re: [Digital BW] UT-14 to Eboni-6

2012-09-11 by remononaz1

Paul:

From reading your response and the C6 PDF, I believe I am wrong in assuming I can use the MIS clearbase that I have. I have the PR-Clearbase-PT. I should be using the PR-C6BBASE-PT for the C6 inks, yes?

Not a big deal at $7 a pint! I should probably grab a fresh set of cartridges for this too. The only thing reused from UT-14 is the Eboni black. 

Homer

Re: [Digital BW] UT-14 to Eboni-6

2012-09-11 by Paul Roark

Homer,

From reading your response and the C6 PDF, I believe I am wrong in assuming
> I can use the MIS clearbase that I have. I have the PR-Clearbase-PT.
>

That one is for dyes, not Eboni dilution.

I should be using the PR-C6BBASE-PT for the C6 inks, yes?
>

Yes, for Eboni pigment dilution and the 1400, you'll want C6B (adds Edwal
LFN) or C6C (adds tergitol).  The C6C shows an improvement if you think you
may try to print on Arches, and it is also fine with any other paper.  The
only reason I didn't specify all the surfactants for everything is the
inconvenience for those mixing their own.

 The only thing reused from UT-14 is the Eboni black.
>

Yes.

Good luck with the transition.

Paul


>
>


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