Digital BW, The Print

Try Paul Roark's curves. I get really good prints with the MIS VM inkset.

Jerry

sdsmith9999 wrote:

> 
> Hello group:
> 
> I've switched from Cone inks to MIS FS.  Too much clogging in my 1140
> with Cone inks.
> 
> Using MIS, I get nice tonal range with the Woolf curve but the dots
> are too visible.
> 
> Images that printed wonderfully (great tones; no dots) with Cone inks
> come our muddy and blotched with MIS.
> 
> I fiddled with the gamma in the piezo driver but that didn't help.
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks -- Stephen Smith
> 
> 
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> 
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Stephen, 
when I switched from the PiezoDriver/Cone-Ink combo to the 
PiezoDriver/MIS-FS-Ink combo on my 1160 I had to readjust all 
my gradation-curves a bit - it was not a big deal. 
I printed a 21step wedge step and customized the greyscale 
settings in PS 6.0 for the new ink.
From now on I had WYSIWYP on my monitor. Tonality of my 
prints was equal to the old Piezo-prints. I could only tell them 
apart by judging the slight difference in overall tone (slightly 
warmer with cone inks or vice versa: slightly cooler with MIS FS).
Nothing about "muddy" prints at all. 
There seems to be something wrong with your settings.
Did you print the 21 step greyscale wedge??
Bernd





--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Jerry Olson 
<jerryolson@r...> wrote:
> Try Paul Roark's curves. I get really good prints with the MIS VM 
inkset.
> 
> Jerry
> 
> sdsmith9999 wrote:
> > 
> > Hello group:
> > 
> > I've switched from Cone inks to MIS FS.  Too much clogging 
in my 1140
> > with Cone inks.
> > 
> > Using MIS, I get nice tonal range with the Woolf curve but the 
dots
> > are too visible.
> > 
> > Images that printed wonderfully (great tones; no dots) with 
Cone inks
> > come our muddy and blotched with MIS.
> > 
> > I fiddled with the gamma in the piezo driver but that didn't 
help.
> > Any suggestions?
> > 
> > Thanks -- Stephen Smith
> > 
> > 
> > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, 
Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being 
updated. The page is at:
> > 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> > 
> > Please follow these basic guidelines:
> > - Include your full name with your message.
> > - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier 
messages to keep them short.
> > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the 
subject header.
> > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks 
or "flames."
> > - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> > - Before posting a question, search the message archives 
and the various resources on the homepage.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Thanks, folks, for the help.  

I'm having trouble with the Roark curve too.  A 21 step test strip 
looks really compressed.  

I'm not a whiz at this stuff.  Cone/Piezo worked well, but that was 
on my previous computer. So I'm wonding about my settings upstream of 
the Piezo driver.  What, in general, should I do in the color space?  
And what else might I be doing wrong (a lot, probably)?

Stephen

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "sdsmith9999" 
<sdsmith9999@a...> wrote:
> Thanks, folks, for the help.  
> 
> I'm having trouble with the Roark curve too.  A 21 step test strip 
> looks really compressed.  
> 
> I'm not a whiz at this stuff.  Cone/Piezo worked well, but that was 
> on my previous computer. So I'm wonding about my settings upstream 
of 
> the Piezo driver.  What, in general, should I do in the color 
space?  

Stephan:

The Roark and Randall workflows are very fussy about colorspace, 
gamma, color correction on or off, etc.  You must follow the recipe 
exactly.  

Speaking for the Randall workflow:
1) you should have your monitor set to gamma 2.2 and edit your image 
in gamma 2.2 space
2) If your image is not already in AdobeRGB 1998 (a gamma 2.2 space) 
then convert your image to AdobeRGB.
4) Use No color correction (Set it in the Epson properties dialog)
5) Set your print driver to Color space: same as source (PS6.0) or 
Space:Abobe RGB (PS5.5)  Uncheck printer CM.
5) Check all other setting in the workflow document.
6) EAM paper (or similar)?

The 1160 driver sometimes does not register changes in the Advanced 
properties box--after setting and hitting OK, hit the advanced button 
again and then OK.  This seems to work (at least for me).

Version E workflow is for the reformulated FS inks (since abut 
January 2002 )If you bought your FS inkset before then, try the 
Version D workflow.

Double check to make sure your inks are in the correct positions.  
Print out a purge file.  Dark gray = cyan position  Middle gray = 
magenta position  Light gray = yellow position.


Good Luck.

Jeff Randall

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "sdsmith9999" 
<sdsmith9999@a...> wrote:
> Thanks, folks, for the help.  
> 
> I'm having trouble with the Roark curve too.  A 21 step test strip 
> looks really compressed.  
> 
> I'm not a whiz at this stuff.  Cone/Piezo worked well, but that was 
> on my previous computer. So I'm wonding about my settings upstream 
of 
> the Piezo driver.  What, in general, should I do in the color 
space?  
> And what else might I be doing wrong (a lot, probably)?

Stephen:

After sleeping on it, I'd like to add that you should also make sure 
to remove any monitor correction (dot-gain curves) you implemented 
for PiezoBW.  You need a monitor calibrated to 6500K and gamma 2.2 
with properly set b/w points--a plain vanilla calibration.  In 
general, images that have been optimized to print with the PiezoBW 
driver, will not print well using the Epson driver unless you apply 
another transfer curve to "undo" the PiezoBW optimizations.  I think 
Robert Morrison has posted several messages in this group on this 
topic (and probably others--sorry if I forgot you). 

Jeff Randall