--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Wesley"
<mwesley250@e...> wrote:
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jmoore172002 [mailto:jeffmoore17@c...]
> > Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:22 PM
> > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Digital BW] Pyro Development for Negatives to be Scanned
> >
> >
> > I apologize if this post is too much off topic.
> >
> > I am interested in exploring Pyro development for my 4x5 sheet
film
> > negatives to be scanned for Piezo printing. I shoot HP5+, process
my
> > film in a Jobo CPP-2 rotary processor, scan on a Polaroid
SprintScan
> > 45 Ultra, then print using PiezographyBW on an Epson 1280 and an
> > Epson 7600. I plan on using the Pyro ABC (Rollo Pyro) formulation.
> >
> > This will be my initial foray into Pyro development. I have a
couple
> > of questions for any experienced Pyro users out there.
> >
> > 1) With respect to scanning, is the staining effect of Pyro
> > development beneficial or detrimental?
> >
> > 2) Any recommendations for starting development times for HP5+ and
> > Rollo Pyro?
> >
> > 3) In a rotary processor, should I pre-soak, and for how long?
> >
> > Any input from experienced pyro users is very much appreciated.
> > Thanks.
> >
> Jeff,
>
> I have been using Pyro in a Jobo CPA-2 for the last 11 or so years.
I mostly
> use my own PBC pyro formula or occasionally PMK with the nitrogen
blanket
> set-up as described in Gordon Hutchings "The Book of Pyro." I
insert sheet
> film dry into the drum and use a single 5 minute presoak with tap
water. All
> the benefits of Pyro for enlarger printing seem to carry over to
digital
> scanning as well and I have not found any need to change my
development. I
> shoot FP4+ and Tmax 400 in 4x5.
>
> I also develop 35mm and 120 film in reels with Pyro on the Jobo with
> nitrogen blanketing. Works great.
>
> I was not able to entirely eliminate mottling in the Jobo without
the
> nitrogen purge. The Chuck Farmer method Don mentioned in his post
sounds
> promising but rather time consuming compared to using the purge. I
am not
> familiar with the Rollo formula.
>
> During scanning with a Howtek D4000 I use just the blue channel for
16-bit
> grayscale to take advantage of the yellow image stain density.
Occasionally
> I will scan in RGB and play with the channel mixer if it is a
problem neg.
>
> Martin Wesley
>I have been successful with Pyro and have gotten most of my info
>from Gordon Hutchings "The Book of Pyro". I,like Martin use a 5
>minute pre-soak. Instead of the nitron burst, I found that two very
>short,"1 minute and 30 second development at 80degrees" worked well
>for me. One thing that gave me trouble was these splotches on the
>the film after completing the process. I found them to be where
>prewet water splashed on the film while introducing the water into
>the drum. Everywhere a drop of water hit the dry film, even though
>that drop didn't stay there for a fraction of a second, it caused
>that spot to show in the dry negative. To eleminate this I would
>take the drum with no lid in place, and push it into a 2 gallon pale
>full of my pre-soak water. A steady, and slightly rapid sinking of
>the entire drum flooded the film fast enough as not to allow any
>part of the film to remain wet before all of it was wet. Then I
>would install the lid and tap the bottom of the drum on the counter
>to eleminate any air bubbles. This >eleminated the splotches for me.
>I call it the Wilfred Dunk. He,He.
Wilfred Smith.