Digital BW, The Print

> Message: 18
>    Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 17:00:38 -0000
>    From: "hill14701" <hill14701@...>
> Subject: Re: lith redevelopment - Digital Black and White Output
>
>
> Roger,
>
> I agree that this topic has relevance for the list, as this is a 
> hybrid process.  I expose
> with a 10d, and formerly printed to 1160 BO or Quadtone.  While I love 
> the tones
> provided and the ability to print on art papers, I wanted a quality 
> lustre surface that
> did not require spray.  I don't know about most of you, but I've never 
> been able to
> spray completely even and the print always look "sprayed."
>
> Lith redevelopment is purely experimental.  On page 106 of Tim 
> Rudman's "The
> Photographer's Master Printing Course," he refers to the process as 
> being successful
> when applied to papers that are initially developed in lith chemistry 
> - but not when
> processed by conventional methods.
>
> Lith development is highly dependant on the paper used.  Those that 
> work best are
> papers that are not developer incorporated (which many RC papers are). 
>  I have no
> idea if the paper from mpix.com is developer incorporated, so I am not 
> certain if lith
> redevelopment will work correctly.  I do know that they use Polymax as 
> their
> developer.
>
> According to Rudman, the steps involved are quite simple and can be 
> performed in
> daylight.  First, bleach the print to completion in any 
> ferricyanide/bromide bleach
> utilized in sepia toner.  Wash the print and redevelop in any lith 
> developer that is
> highly dilute.
>
> Here is where I believe the process will give a "lith look."  On page 
> 107 Rudman gives
> a recipe for Non-LIth alternatives by "adding sodium hydroxide (NaOH) 
> to your
> developer.  This compound is produced in the infectious development 
> cycle when
> paraformaldehyde reacts wih sulfite.  NaOH can cause burns and should 
> be handled
> with gloves.  It works best with PQ developers such as Ilford PQ 
> Universal."  His
> recommendation is 5g of NaOH to 1 liter of working strength developer 
> to acheive a
> lith type look to the print.  Page 107 gives an excellent print 
> example and this would
> be my starting point for lith redevelopment.
>
> For any bleach and redevelopment process, you need to have the initial 
> print darker
> than that of the final image.  Typically, you would print an image 1-2 
> stops darker
> and process normally.  Wash then bleach the print to completion.  Wash 
> the print and
> redevelop in working developer+NaOH as described above.
>
> I am not certain if this will work as I intend, or how pronounced the 
> lith apparance will
> be when completed.  Remember this is only one method to achieve a lith 
> look on a
> darkroom print.  It would be just as easy to have a print made that 
> was two stops too
> dark and bleach back to proper print density.  Bleaching without 
> redeveloping or
> toning gives the print a brown tone as well as giving the print a 
> grainy appearance.
> There are many additional darkroom practices that can be utilized for 
> post-
> processing, but the best is just experimenting.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Don
>