Digital BW, The Print

Hello all

I still have an old EPSON 1160 with just one "black"-nozzle not firing
properly - I think that nozzle has gone for good. But I still get
fairly decent BO-printing results using 1440dpi and MIS Ebony k (As a
street photographer I can do with a certain dottiness - In actual fact
I even like it).

My question to the experts: If I were to "upgrade" Ebony k with a
"colour" cartridge for a different printing technique  should I choose
the "FS" oder the "FSN" version??? Put otherwise: is FS' or FSN's
original/inherent "hue" nearer Ebony's mildly warm k???

Why am I asking this question? The answer: I can't stand even ever so
slight hue "deviations" along the d-curve, e.g. one part being warm,
one part cooler, and one part more neutral ...

Of course I should like to get slightly more neutral prints than you
can get with the BO-Ebony-k technique but then I am a purist as far as
the overall hue goes. No compromise there (see above).

Thanks for any comments

Chatzebussi

Chatzebussi,

> 
> I still have an old EPSON 1160 with just one "black"-nozzle not firing
> properly - I think that nozzle has gone for good.

In addition to the usual cleaning recommendations, you might try a cleaning
cart and let it sit there, with occasional cleaning cycles, for a week or
more.

> ... If I were to "upgrade" Ebony k with a
> "colour" cartridge for a different printing technique  should I choose
> the "FS" oder the "FSN" version??? Put otherwise: is FS' or FSN's
> original/inherent "hue" nearer Ebony's mildly warm k???

FS is warmer than FSN and closer to Eboni's warm tone.  I call FS medium
warm.

> Why am I asking this question? The answer: I can't stand even ever so
> slight hue "deviations" along the d-curve, e.g. one part being warm,
> one part cooler, and one part more neutral ...

Of course, the problem with a "monotone" inkset is that different papers
print with different tones or colorcasts in different parts of the curve.
One reason for the variable-tone approach is to be able to profile the
papers so that they are even.  Identical ink colors doesn't do it.

For example, Eboni is closer to neutral in the dark shadows than in the
lighter tones.


> Of course I should like to get slightly more neutral prints than you
> can get with the BO-Ebony-k technique but then I am a purist as far as
> the overall hue goes. No compromise there (see above).

UT-FS is probably your best shot.

Good luck.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark"
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> Chatzebussi,
> 
> > 
> > I still have an old EPSON 1160 with just one "black"-nozzle not firing
> > properly - I think that nozzle has gone for good.
> 
> In addition to the usual cleaning recommendations, you might try a
cleaning
> cart and let it sit there, with occasional cleaning cycles, for a
week or
> more.
> 
> > ... If I were to "upgrade" Ebony k with a
> > "colour" cartridge for a different printing technique  should I choose
> > the "FS" oder the "FSN" version??? Put otherwise: is FS' or FSN's
> > original/inherent "hue" nearer Ebony's mildly warm k???
> 
> FS is warmer than FSN and closer to Eboni's warm tone.  I call FS medium
> warm.
> 
> > Why am I asking this question? The answer: I can't stand even ever so
> > slight hue "deviations" along the d-curve, e.g. one part being warm,
> > one part cooler, and one part more neutral ...
> 
> Of course, the problem with a "monotone" inkset is that different papers
> print with different tones or colorcasts in different parts of the
curve.
> One reason for the variable-tone approach is to be able to profile the
> papers so that they are even.  Identical ink colors doesn't do it.
> 
> For example, Eboni is closer to neutral in the dark shadows than in the
> lighter tones.
> 
> 
> > Of course I should like to get slightly more neutral prints than you
> > can get with the BO-Ebony-k technique but then I am a purist as far as
> > the overall hue goes. No compromise there (see above).
> 
> UT-FS is probably your best shot.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com



Dear Paul

thanks for your knowledgeable answer(s)

1) I recently was given an EPSON 1520 for free, practically no copies
"on the clock", but unused for more than two years and of course
clogged, clogged, clogged...

I used almost all the tricks of the trade I have heard of and when
after two to three weeks of fiddling around I was on the verge of
giving up it began to print again. Today I am proud to say its working
properly again. It would have been such a shame to throw that printer
away ....

So perhaps I should follow the same procedure with my EPSON 1160.
We'll wait and see.

2) Taking it from your very precise description of MIS FS vs MIS FSN
behaviour I will opt for the FS "shot" on EAM/EEM and Hahnemühle PR. I
do realize but now that matters are much more complex than I thought:
(Printer), Inks AND paper playing an nonlinear trio in the
tone/colorcast issue of the curve and that proper profiling would be
the answer ... (but then I have an EPSON 2100, too).

Chatzebussi

P.S. OT: Remember "Where is Haunmeyer" a few years ago?