Paul is "the man" when it comes to great curves and inksets. I
gave up on the 2000P with Epson ink for b/w. Now I am
wrestling with it for good color.
As Mark Tucker said, "If you can't get a good tone in your print,
who cares how many years it lasts".
Frank
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "a_pettit_jr"
<a_pettit_jr@y...> wrote:
> Hello Frank,
>
> Well after another long night of testing, my printer is not at fault
-
> it was that every quad or tricolor pantone set was a fairly
neutral
> set of greys, tans, sepais or browns ....
> And the metamerism shifted everything to green or I wound up
with
> strong magenta casts in the shadows...
>
> I found, after about 30 tests, that a mod to a duotone blue
worked
> pretty well ... but still somewhat Green....
> Thus, I have given up attempting to get good BW prints from
the
> standard Epson ink set and have some MIS variable.mix inks
on the way.
> The 1280 style inks fit the printer, and Paul Roark just
happened to
> have a set of correcton curves for the MIS/VM and 2000P in his
back
> pocket <G>
>
> Thanks For The Reply
>
> Alex P
>
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "culturalvisions"
> <frank@c...> wrote:
> > I started printing b/w with a 2000P and switched to an 1160
with
> MIS
> > inks. I had two ways of making prints on the 2000P. First,
use
> black
> > ink only. This is by far the best system. No metamerism at
all!
> And a
> > nice warm tone. The prints are a bit chunkier than my 1160,
but
> they
> > still look good (without a loupe).
> >
> > The other way is a constant battle with metamerism, but very
> beautiful
> > under the right light. Use the tritone and quadtone settings
> available
> > through photoshop and pick the three or four pantones you
want. The
> > possibilites are wonderful and I would switch back to that
method
> if it
> > wasn't for the creeping green.
> >
> > Let me know if you need a workflow for doing the quadtone
settings.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> >
> > Frank
> >
> > http://www.culturalvisions.com
> >