Digital BW, The Print

I have found that Fuji Neopan Acros (rated at 100, use at an IE of 50)
and Neopan 400 (rated and shot at an IE of 400), developed in pyro and
scanned in with a Minolta Dimage Multipro provides excellent results.
 The pyro stains the film so there is really no grain. I scan the
negatives as if they were color positives at 48 bits and 3200 dpi,
invert in photoshop to a positive and I get excellent results.  I am
shooting 6x6 format using the 120 film and have been very very very
happy with the results.

Mike

Mike,


> I have found that Fuji Neopan Acros (rated at 100, use at an IE of 50)
> and Neopan 400 (rated and shot at an IE of 400), developed in pyro and
> scanned in with a Minolta Dimage Multipro provides excellent results.
>  The pyro stains the film so there is really no grain. I scan the
> negatives as if they were color positives at 48 bits and 3200 dpi,
> invert in photoshop to a positive and I get excellent results.  I am
> shooting 6x6 format using the 120 film and have been very very very
> happy with the results.

What pyro formula or source do you use?  I've been thinking a staining
developer may be the way to go also (when my Tech Pan runs out).  That
approach is sometimes said to work best with the old style films that had
more silver in them.  Do you find it works with Acros 100 as well as the
400?

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Paul,

I used to use a pyro developer called (I think) PMK. It was sold by 
Photographers Formulary.

This particular pyro develolper would last as long as it was a 
liquid. No kidding!

Scott



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
> 
> 
> > I have found that Fuji Neopan Acros (rated at 100, use at an IE 
of 50)
> > and Neopan 400 (rated and shot at an IE of 400), developed in 
pyro and
> > scanned in with a Minolta Dimage Multipro provides excellent 
results.
> >  The pyro stains the film so there is really no grain. I scan the
> > negatives as if they were color positives at 48 bits and 3200 dpi,
> > invert in photoshop to a positive and I get excellent results.  I 
am
> > shooting 6x6 format using the 120 film and have been very very 
very
> > happy with the results.
> 
> What pyro formula or source do you use?  I've been thinking a 
staining
> developer may be the way to go also (when my Tech Pan runs out).  
That
> approach is sometimes said to work best with the old style films 
that had
> more silver in them.  Do you find it works with Acros 100 as well 
as the

> 400?
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>

http://www.photoformulary.com/DesktopModules/StoreProductDetails.aspx?
productID=89&tabid=9&tabindex=2&categoryid=31&selection=0&langID=0

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
> 
> 
> > I have found that Fuji Neopan Acros (rated at 100, use at an IE 
of 50)
> > and Neopan 400 (rated and shot at an IE of 400), developed in 
pyro and
> > scanned in with a Minolta Dimage Multipro provides excellent 
results.
> >  The pyro stains the film so there is really no grain. I scan the
> > negatives as if they were color positives at 48 bits and 3200 dpi,
> > invert in photoshop to a positive and I get excellent results.  I 
am
> > shooting 6x6 format using the 120 film and have been very very 
very
> > happy with the results.
> 
> What pyro formula or source do you use?  I've been thinking a 
staining
> developer may be the way to go also (when my Tech Pan runs out).  
That
> approach is sometimes said to work best with the old style films 
that had
> more silver in them.  Do you find it works with Acros 100 as well 
as the

> 400?
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>

Also check Pyrocat-HD Formula by Sandy King. I have not used it but it seems many switch to 
it from PMK Pyro:

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html

http://www.photo-supplies.com/pyrocat-hd.html

I've been using PMK for years and I love it. The stock really keeps for 
many years! Unfortunately on 35mm I almost always get streaks from the 
perforation (not an issue on MF), something that has ruined many 
pictures. I've tried different agitation schemes etc., to no avail. 
because of that I looked recently into PyroCat. No streaks, but much 
less staining. My tests (esp. concerning "scannability") haven't yet 
gotten far enough for me to decide on which to continue.

Louis


John Vitollo wrote:

> Also check Pyrocat-HD Formula by Sandy King. I have not used it but it seems many switch to 
> it from PMK Pyro:
> 
> http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html
> 
> http://www.photo-supplies.com/pyrocat-hd.html
>

Paul Roark  wrote:

> 
> What pyro formula or source do you use?  I've been thinking a staining
> developer may be the way to go also (when my Tech Pan runs out).  That
> approach is sometimes said to work best with the old style films that had
> more silver in them.  Do you find it works with Acros 100 as well as the
> 400?

I have used PMK for small format films (tank development) and ABC pyro for large format 
films (tray development by inspection).

The 400 ASA T-grain type films (e.g. Delta 400) stain much better than the 100 ASA films 
but the developer is fine for the slower films as well.

The approach of scanning as color may allow one to vary the effect of the stain vs. the 
silver itself. In any case this is also the approach I've used.

Given the use of Photoshop it is less clear to me that any other characteristics, such as 
acutance effects or the ability to tame blown out highlights, are as important as the fact 
that the stock solutions last forever.

I still use ABC pyro for sheet film (8x10) development by inspection, but frankly for 35mm 
I've recently switched over to shooting with Kodak UC 100 which allows me to modify the 
color -> BW conversion process using adjustment layers.

I have been using Pyrocat-HD for 4x5 for a couple of years. Works great with EFKE PL100. 
Relatively thin negatives work best for scanning, of course.  

Skies with the PL100/P-HD look a bit grainy, though not bad. Sharpness is great. I have 
TMX and Agfa APX-100 negatives that scan with less grain. Not a side by side controlled 
test of the same subject and conditions, but it doesn't seem to be a huge breakthrough for 
scanning.

Costa
 


 --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "John Vitollo" <jvlist@c...> wrote:
>
> Also check Pyrocat-HD Formula by Sandy King. I have not used it but it seems many 
switch to 

> it from PMK Pyro:
> 
> http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html
> 
> http://www.photo-supplies.com/pyrocat-hd.html
>

> I have been using Pyrocat-HD for 4x5 for a couple of years. Works
> great with EFKE PL100.
> Relatively thin negatives work best for scanning, of course.
>
> Skies with the PL100/P-HD look a bit grainy, though not bad.
> Sharpness is great. I have
> TMX and Agfa APX-100 negatives that scan with less grain. Not a
> side by side controlled
> test of the same subject and conditions, but it doesn't seem to
> be a huge breakthrough for
> scanning.
>

Costa,

I jsut got some Pyrocat to try with PL100 (as well as maybe HP5 which is my
standard film) - what sort of times/speeds are you using

tim a

> Relatively thin negatives work best for scanning, of course.  

Curious about this statement, Costa.  It has been my experience that I can get a much better 
density range in scanning than I could ever get in a traditional silver darkroom.  I have many 
negatives that always were a fight in  the darkroom ( to dense or too contrasty) , that scan 
with full range and tonality and print easily via digital output.

Perhaps you are not getting the most out of your scanner.  Are you scanning in 16 bit?

Phil

In response to your streaking issue.  Presoak your film with 
distilled water for 30 seconds or so.  It will soften the emulsion 
enough so when developeer rushes thru the sprocket holes development 
is more even.

Hope this helps

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Louis de Stoutz 
<loudest@a...> wrote:
>
> I've been using PMK for years and I love it. The stock really keeps 
for 
> many years! Unfortunately on 35mm I almost always get streaks from 
the 
> perforation (not an issue on MF), something that has ruined many 
> pictures. I've tried different agitation schemes etc., to no avail. 
> because of that I looked recently into PyroCat. No streaks, but 
much 
> less staining. My tests (esp. concerning "scannability") haven't 
yet 
> gotten far enough for me to decide on which to continue.
> 
> Louis
> 
> 
> John Vitollo wrote:
> > Also check Pyrocat-HD Formula by Sandy King. I have not used it 
but it seems many switch to 

> > it from PMK Pyro:
> > 
> > http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html
> > 
> > http://www.photo-supplies.com/pyrocat-hd.html
> >
>