Digital BW, The Print

Hello Paul


Like everything else I sink my teeth into, I must try and find out 
what makes things tick.

What are the percentages of gray ink,  in each respective cartridge 
of the MIS UT-R2 inksets that go in the R220. Both the Neutral set 
and the Warm set.  Is there a difference between gray ink density,  
and ink percentage?  

Would you be kind enough to explain what the chemistry is that makes 
one set Neutral and one set Warm.

You suggest that by replacing the yellow positioned cartridge in the 
Neutral set,  with that of a respective Warm cartridge,  it will warm 
the Neutral prints.   Are there other combinations that you would 
recommend juggling?


Very much appreciated


Mike

> What are the percentages of gray ink,  in each respective cartridge
> of the MIS UT-R2 inksets that go in the R220. Both the Neutral set
> and the Warm set.  Is there a difference between gray ink density,
> and ink percentage?

I don't think in terms of ink percentages, because it implies some absolute
standard reference point.  Percentage of what?  Measuring the carbon content
or density?

MIS occasionally uses a percentage number on its inks, but they should not
be taken literally.  They are only used to indicate relative density, and
the percentages used are not directly related to any content or measure.

The UT R2 midtone inks come in 2 densities and 2 tones (hues).  The neutral
C & M inks are the same ink.  The neutral LC, LM, and Y are the same ink.
Ditto for the warm inks.  The densities are the same as most of the other
recent inksets I've worked on.  The carbon (warm) set is, in fact, the same
as the UT2 and UT7 (and UT 3D) carbon.  These are standard densities that
I've found to match the Epson driver assumptions and crossovers.  All Epson
hextone printers are surprisingly alike.


> 
> Would you be kind enough to explain what the chemistry is that makes
> one set Neutral and one set Warm.

The warm is pure carbon.

The neutral has cyan and R800 clone blue pigments added to cool it down to
close to neutral.  How neutral it is depends on the paper.  I try not to
have it go green, however.   As such on most papers it has a very slight
magenta or "selenium" tone. Lab a* between 0 and 1 is my ideal range for
neutral a midtone with Lab b* = 0.


> You suggest that by replacing the yellow positioned cartridge in the
> Neutral set,  with that of a respective Warm cartridge,  it will warm
> the Neutral prints.   Are there other combinations that you would
> recommend juggling?

It's really a matter of personal taste and paper choice.  You can also mix
(physically pour them together) the warm and neutral inks to any
intermediate hue.  You can also use cool in the light and warm in the dark
or vice versa for a split tone affect.  

Have fun; experiment.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@...> wrote:
>
> > What are the percentages of gray ink,  in each respective 
cartridge
> > of the MIS UT-R2 inksets that go in the R220. Both the Neutral set
> > and the Warm set.  Is there a difference between gray ink density,
> > and ink percentage?
> 
> I don't think in terms of ink percentages, because it implies some 
absolute
> standard reference point.  Percentage of what?  Measuring the 
carbon content
> or density?
> 
> MIS occasionally uses a percentage number on its inks, but they 
should not
> be taken literally.  They are only used to indicate relative 
density, and
> the percentages used are not directly related to any content or 
measure.
> 
> The UT R2 midtone inks come in 2 densities and 2 tones (hues).  The 
neutral
> C & M inks are the same ink.  The neutral LC, LM, and Y are the 
same ink.
> Ditto for the warm inks.  The densities are the same as most of the 
other
> recent inksets I've worked on.  The carbon (warm) set is, in fact, 
the same
> as the UT2 and UT7 (and UT 3D) carbon.  These are standard 
densities that
> I've found to match the Epson driver assumptions and crossovers.  
All Epson
> hextone printers are surprisingly alike.
> 
> 
> > 
> > Would you be kind enough to explain what the chemistry is that 
makes
> > one set Neutral and one set Warm.
> 
> The warm is pure carbon.
> 
> The neutral has cyan and R800 clone blue pigments added to cool it 
down to
> close to neutral.  How neutral it is depends on the paper.  I try 
not to
> have it go green, however.   As such on most papers it has a very 
slight
> magenta or "selenium" tone. Lab a* between 0 and 1 is my ideal 
range for
> neutral a midtone with Lab b* = 0.
> 
> 
> > You suggest that by replacing the yellow positioned cartridge in 
the
> > Neutral set,  with that of a respective Warm cartridge,  it will 
warm
> > the Neutral prints.   Are there other combinations that you would
> > recommend juggling?
> 
> It's really a matter of personal taste and paper choice.  You can 
also mix
> (physically pour them together) the warm and neutral inks to any
> intermediate hue.  You can also use cool in the light and warm in 
the dark
> or vice versa for a split tone affect.  
> 
> Have fun; experiment.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com



Thanks much for you very detailed and direct answer.

Mike