> I don't mind testing, but would like to limit that testing to 5 or
6
> pieces of paper rather than 12.
>
> thanks,
> ann
Ann,
John Paul Caponigro web site has some downloadable tips you may want
to look at. Check these tips out at,
http://www.johnpaulcaponigro.com/lib/downloads/technique/technique.php
Look under the "Proofing" section. There he has a few tips on how to
test at minimal material cost.
You may also want to make a (or use someone else's) step wedge. To
make your own, follow these steps:
1. Make a new document at the resolution you normally print at. The
image itself doesn't have to be big, say 5x7 @300ppi
2.Make a black & white linear gradient across the image
3. Go to Image>Adjustments>Posterize, and set the steps to 10,
thinking Zone System, but any number above 10 is fine.
4. Now you have a your 10 step Step Wedge, with Black and White with
8 steps of gray.
Now you want to see how to affect the contrast of this wedge. You can
use either Curves or Levels. It all depends on what you're
comfortable using. Let's use Levels first.
1. Make a Levels Adjustment Layer. When the dialog box opens you'll
see 10 (or what ever the number you set in the Posterize step
above) spikes in the histogram. Use these as a reference, and
note the numbers.
2. When you move the white Highlight slider to the left you decrease
the number of light tones and increase contrast. When you move the
black Shadow slider to the right, you decrease the number of dark
tones, and again increase contrast. Moving the gray Midtone
slider to the left or right tweaks your hight or shadow tonality.
As you'll see, this is much more control than you had in a wet
darkroom.
Finally, to understand what your image will look like when printed,
here's a quick & dirty way to preview and proof it, once you
understand what your Levels adjustments do.
1. Using a flatten duplicate version of your image, create a new
layer above it. Set this layer's Blending mode to either Overlay
or Softlight. Overlay is more contrasty.
2. Make the gradient and set your Posterize steps to 10 or whatever
number you wish.
3. Open the Levels dialog on this layer. DO NOT use an Adjustment
Layer, because that will affect ALL LAYERS underneath it.
4. Make your tonal adjustments to this gradient layer. Use
the "Preview" checkbox to see the effects of your adjustments.
5. When you're done, duplicate the Image and flatten it, and make a
print (using one of John Paul's techniques would also be a good
idea)
6. When you decide on which step looks the best as a print, go back
to your layered image (the one with the Gradient layer still
intact) and TURN OFF your image layer,which should be the
Background layer. Now, use the Eyedropper Tool and click on the
step that gave the results you liked.
7. Create a new Layer, change its Blending Mode and fill that layer
with the gray tone you've just collected. Turn the Image layer
back on.
That's it. Sounds like a lot when read, but it is pretty easy and
straight forward to do. As some else had stated, there are no magic
numbers, use your eyes. However,this approach will give control over
the image in a fairly emperical way. For example, for the way you
create your images, in time you can have a series of these gray
tone/blending modes swatches that you can use as "Contrast Filters",
that you will be able to simply drop into your image files when
printing.
Hope this will be of some help,
Jarvis Grant
Washington, DC