Digital BW, The Print

I've been trying to get this to work and haven't gotten any help from
Lyson...too busy with a corporate merger to bother with customers,
perhaps?  This has been going on for nearly 3 months as I gave up and
waited for them to respond for too long, but that guy got fired....

Anyone have any experience with it?

I'm using an Epson 2000P, two of them in fact as I want to dedicate
one to black and white only and improve on BO with Epson inks if
possible (right now I doubt it...), and have had the same problem with
both.  Both work beautifully with Epson inks...so it's not the
printer, heads, or the like.  Also get perfect nozzle checks, target
prints, etc.

Here's the issue.  I get a strong blue cast when printing.  If I
reduce the end point for the blue ink, the color cast is reduced. 
Turn it off and I get a very poor warm print, blue is, of course,
gone.  Reduce it to a low level, just a bit of blue.

When I use the profiles supplied the problem is the same.  When I
built my own profile for Museo Silver Rag, same problem, especially in
the light shadows.

It appears to me that there is a blue ink in the third position in my
cartridges where there should be a very lt. grey, which appears to be
in the 5th position.  Is this possible?  Studying the graphs of ink
outputs in Profile Creator, it appears that the third ink should be
putting down a nice lt grey, added to with the second and finished
with the pure black.  But there's blue instead.

Anyone have any information on this kind of problem?  My guess is
defective color cartridges but I don't know.

Dave

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "David H. Miller" 
<daveinmoscow@...> wrote:
>
> Here's the issue.  I get a strong blue cast when printing.  If I
> reduce the end point for the blue ink, the color cast is reduced. 
> Turn it off and I get a very poor warm print, blue is, of course,
> gone.  Reduce it to a low level, just a bit of blue.
> 
> When I use the profiles supplied the problem is the same.  When I
> built my own profile for Museo Silver Rag, same problem, especially in
> the light shadows.

Isn't Lyson's Daylight Darkroom a repackaged InkJetConrol/OPM Rip by Bowhaus?

You can try their forums:

http://www.bowhaus.com/cgi-bin/Blah/Blah.pl?b=003

Dave,

Contact me off list, and I will put you in touch with the right people at
Lyson.


Michael J. Pach
AdventureCam Photo
719-260-6637
mike@...
www.adventurecamphoto.com
AOL IM: mikep1967

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dave,

>I'm using an Epson 2000P ... I want to dedicate
>one to black and white only ...

When you give up on Lyson, consider the MIS FS or FSN inks.  I don't have a
2000P, but a local loaned me one to set up with these inks, and it turned
out to be one of the best B&W matte paper printers I'd seen.  See
http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/2000P-FS-Readme.htm

(The printer overloaded the glossy papers -- which also happened on my
similar 7500.  That's one reason I use a modified approach on my 7500.  See
http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/7500-FS-Readme.htm  I also needed to print
matte and glossy without changing the black inks.  So, what I have in the
7500 is a hybrid system that would take more work to set up than I'd
recommend unless you are proficient with curves and profiling.)

I'm no longer a big fan of FS/N inks for most printers, but the 2000P has
slightly larger dots than the 1280, and it may be that you'd notice a
difference in the highlights with the lighter FS/N inks over the UT-R2 inks,
which are what I now recommend for monotone.  See
http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/R220_R2_Readme.pdf

While the above pdf is for the 220, the R2 inks are essentially generic inks
that work in any modern Epson from what I can tell.  With a monotone ICC
created with Roy Harrington's "Create ICC" anyone can linearize these
printers easily.  See http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/Making_B-W_ICCs.htm

In order to easily print both matte and glossy papers, I'd probably start
with the R2 approach and see if the highlights were acceptable.  The R2-N C
& M position inks are the same and the same density as the FS-C.  So, if you
buy a 4 oz. bottle of that, it's not a waste if the lighter FS M and Y inks
are needed.  The spongeless, easy to refill carts MIS has for these work
well.  You can even change the tones of inks in the chambers.  So, it's not
much of a problem to buy small bulk quantities and experiment with what
works for you.

Good luck.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com