Digital BW, The Print

I see the term "bronzing" used a lot here, but not sure that's what I'm 
seeing, since it's usually used for slick papers, and seen from a 
certain angle etc.  I use the technique of printing from a grayscale 
image and adjusting the sliders to Paul's recommendations.  Still, on 
many prints, I get a distinct bronze tone in some areas (it's really 
there, not just in some light or at some angles).  Should I go the 
other route and do the grayscale to RGB then use curves, and if so any 
recommendations on settings?  I'm using Epson Enhanced Matte now, if 
that matters.

Thanks

Michael

B&W or color?  



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kimnmichael"
<yallcome@...> wrote:

>
> I see the term "bronzing" used a lot here, but not sure that's what I'm 
> seeing, since it's usually used for slick papers, and seen from a 
> certain angle etc.  I use the technique of printing from a grayscale 
> image and adjusting the sliders to Paul's recommendations.  Still, on 
> many prints, I get a distinct bronze tone in some areas (it's really 
> there, not just in some light or at some angles).  Should I go the 
> other route and do the grayscale to RGB then use curves, and if so any 
> recommendations on settings?  I'm using Epson Enhanced Matte now, if 
> that matters.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Michael
>

>I see the term "bronzing" used a lot here, but not sure that's 
>what I'm seeing, since it's usually used for slick papers, 
>and seen from a certain angle etc. 

Bronzing is a reflective color that shows up on many glossy papers.  Since
you're using EEM, what you're seeing is not bronzing in the way we usually
talk of it.

>I use the technique of printing from a grayscale image and 
>adjusting the sliders to Paul's recommendations. 
>Still, on many prints, I get a distinct bronze tone in some areas 
>(it's really there, not just in some light or at some angles). 
> Should I go the other route and do the grayscale to RGB then 
>use curves, ...
> using Epson Enhanced Matte ...

Yes, give them a try.  I'd select one that is neutral or medium warm.
Follow the settings at http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/UT2-Readme.htm 

You may be seeing the effects of the sepia ink tone that is in the yellow
position.  Note also that with any of the workflows it's hard to avoid a
warm cross-over in the shadows with some papers.  The black carbon ink is
warm, particularly at about 90%.  The cool toners can only counteract it
through the midtones.  So, as you approach black, the toners become
overwhelmed.  Some papers print with cool shadows.  EEM is not one, however.
This warm cross-over is going to be much more noticeable if you're using a
cool tone to print.

Good luck.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com