Digital BW, The Print

In a message dated 9/26/07 4:24:33 PM, r.smallfield@... writes:


> I print about half colour and half black and white.
> 
> In both cases, despite different work flows, the prints are darker and 
> contrastier than the monitor.
> 
> My monitor is calibrated and for colour I use custom profiles, so they 
> should match.
> 
> My BW printing is done with QTR but, as I can't afford a spectro, I use the 
> standard profiles and curves.
> 
> I do get good results in the end, but only after too much proofing.
> 
> What link in the chain is likely to be the problem? My monitor is a Philips 
> CRT ... must be about 3 years old.
> 
Ambient light levels, and especially proofing light levels, are the usual 
culpret. Sounds obvious when worded this way but: if you shine a brighter light 
on your print, it will show more detail and less contrast as the shadows and 
midtones are more open under brighter lighting. This is more common with LCDs, 
where users run a very dim studio, and an old proofing light, but a newer, 
brighter LCD. 

An old, dull CRT with low luminance will show minimal contrast, but usually 
looks darker, not lighter, than the print. So there are a number of 
possibilities, most of which center around monitor luminance, proofing luminance, and 
ambient luminance...

C. David Tobie
Product Technology Manager
ColorVision Business Division
DataColor Inc.
CDTobie@...
www.colorvision.com


**************************************
 See what's new at 
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks a lot ... I usually look at proofs under a full-spectrum fluorescent light.

But I have been leaving the big window at the back of the room unblinded lately. Stupid me.

What's the average age limit for a CRT monitor?

thanks,
Richard

At 10:36 AM Thursday 9/27/2007, you wrote:
>In a message dated 9/26/07 4:24:33 PM, r.smallfield@... writes:
>> What link in the chain is likely to be the problem? My monitor is a Philips 
>> CRT ... must be about 3 years old.
>> 
>Ambient light levels, and especially proofing light levels, are the usual 
>culpret. Sounds obvious when worded this way but: if you shine a brighter light 
>on your print, it will show more detail and less contrast as the shadows and 
>midtones are more open under brighter lighting. This is more common with LCDs, 
>where users run a very dim studio, and an old proofing light, but a newer, 
>brighter LCD. 
>
>An old, dull CRT with low luminance will show minimal contrast, but usually 
>looks darker, not lighter, than the print. So there are a number of 
>possibilities, most of which center around monitor luminance, proofing luminance, and 
>ambient luminance...

--
http://smallfield.vze.com
http://photos.smallfield.vze.com (Photos web site)
http://warkworth.vze.com/ (Warkworth photo essay)
http://picasaweb.google.com/rsmallfield/ (Recent work) 

   "A liberal is a person whose interests aren't at stake, 
   at the moment."
   --Willis Player

Hello Richard, I had the same problem with my printing recently.   If your 
prints are consistantly too dark or too light, All you have to do is change the 
brightness and contrast of your monitor.   This one thing completely changed 
the way I print. Sometimes I still get a print that has to be worked on but for 
the most part the darkness or lightness is greatly improved.   Generally if 
your prints are coming out too dark, darken the monitor.   If your prints are 
coming out too light lighten the monitor.   Also if your prints are too 
contrasty increase   your monitor contrast and etc. You have to do the reverse of the 
problem you are having. I hope that this helps you. Steve



**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 9/26/07 8:09:02 PM, deandadin@... writes:


> Hello Richard, I had the same problem with my printing recently.   If your
> prints are consistantly too dark or too light, All you have to do is change 
> the
> brightness and contrast of your monitor. 
> 

Well, changing it manually, after the monitor is calibrated and profiled 
isn't ideal, nor is it measured or repeatable. The idea is to determine the 
correct monitor white luminance (contrast control) and black luminance (brightness 
control) as part of your calibration process. This allow multiple monitors to 
be matched, and relates all of them to the ambient/proofing light. Just messing 
with the controls is the cowboy approach. 

C. David Tobie
Product Technology Manager
ColorVision Business Unit
Datacolor Inc.
CDTobie@colorvision.com
www.colorvision.com


**************************************
 See what's new at 
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]