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r1800 3-MK modification

r1800 3-MK modification

2008-03-22 by togeorge626

I recently converted a refurbished R1800 to the 3-MK workflow, and am
getting very good results printing my scanned B&W negs on Museo II. 
However, I have some Silver Rag that I would like to use in the same
printer, but I need some guidance in re: Paul R's changes to 3-MK to
do this.  From reading his method I assume that I would change the
Eboni MK in the PK position to the equivalent PK ink, and change the
MK in the glop position back to glop.  Then I would print the image
and, after drying, run the print back through the printer using only
the glop channel.  Afterwards I would over-spray.  Do I have this
right?  How does one control the printer to use only the glop channel
and nothing else?  How much better is the above workflow than simply
printing Silver Rag with the 3-MK inks, and then over-spraying?  

Thanks

Re: r1800 3-MK modification

2008-03-22 by pr_roark

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "togeorge626"
<togeorge41934@...> wrote:
>
> I recently converted a refurbished R1800 to the 3-MK workflow, and am
> getting very good results printing my scanned B&W negs on Museo II.
> However, I have some Silver Rag that I would like to use in the same
> printer, but I need some guidance in re: Paul R's changes to 3-MK to
> do this. From reading his method I assume that I would change the
> Eboni MK in the PK position to the equivalent PK ink,

I kept the MK in the PK position and ended up with MIS MP-PK in the Y
position.  One MP-PK is enough.

> and change the MK in the glop position back to glop.

Yes, put Glop in the GO position and put that MK in the C position.

> Then I would print the image
> and, after drying, run the print back through the printer using only
> the glop channel.

Yes, in the first pass I also used Glop to start the process of sticking
down the Eboni to the glossy surface.

For the second pass, make a "black" image larger than the actual image,
and use a profile that simply prints Glop at 100%.

> Afterwards I would over-spray.

The second pass is the over spray.  I do not spray these prints also. 
That is an alternative, however.  I tend to like the looks of the glop
overcoat better because it is thinner and shows more of the original
paper look.  A Print Shield spray, however, offers more protection.  The
glop seems to dry slowly and never gets as hard and abraision resistant
as the Print Shield.

>  How does one control the printer to use only the glop channel
> and nothing else?

Just make a profile with the Point List coordinates (0,0) and (100,100).
Then a black image will print 100% glop.  If you want less, make a gray
image of the percentage of glop you want.

I've put some of my profiles for glossy papers at
http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/1800-3MK+PK+Glop.zip
<http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/1800-3MK+PK+Glop.zip>   It's not a
complete list, and be careful to note where the inks are -- they'll vary
as I change things.  The notes tab will sometimes let you know.

> How much better is the above workflow than simply
> printing Silver Rag with the 3-MK inks, and then over-spraying?


It takes a lot of glop to cover the MK -- same with Print Shield.

Frankly I cancelled my order for the Ilford Gold paper, and I'm about to
pull the glossy inks from the 1800.   If I displayed imges with no
glazing, I might continue the search for the perfect glossy print, but
from what I've seen so far, my matte printing is very safe, and pursuing
those matte printing options is a better use of my time.

Good luck with the effort.

Paul

www.PaulRoark.com <http://www.PaulRoark.com>









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