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R2 and UT14 inks

R2 and UT14 inks

2008-07-08 by Chris Ellis

Hi

I put this question to MIS (it seems unfair that Paul should do all
the work :-)) but have had no reply.  Hopefully someone will know the
answer!

>>>>>

I've recently had to retire my R220 due to a hardware problem.

Unfortunately I'd just replenished my stocks of bulk ink for it so I
have a bottle of dark and light gray for each of the R2 warm and
neutral inksets.

I'm very interested in trying Paul's new UT14 inks in a 1400. What I'd
like to know is whether the gray inks for the R2 system are the same
as for UT14 - if so I think all I need is a bottle of glop and a
printer and I'm up and running.

Thanks

Chris

Re: R2 and UT14 inks

2008-07-15 by pr_roark

... 
> I'm very interested in trying Paul's new UT14 inks in a 1400. What I'd
> like to know is whether the gray inks for the R2 system are the same
> as for UT14 - ...

The Eboni is the same in both.  Other than that, the UT14 uses 
different inks than the R2 inkset.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Re: R2 and UT14 inks

2008-07-21 by Chris Ellis

Hi Paul

Many thanks for the info.

I've read through your documentation on this inkset and one thing I'm
not clear on is the range of tones it produces (i.e. cool to warm) -
if I understood the lab charts it would help but I'm afraid I don't
have a point of reference.

Presumably the warmest it gets is 100% carbon.  Are the cool inks much
cooler than the neutral inks in the R2 system?  Do they compare with,
for example, the cool inks in the old VM inkset for the 1290?

Thanks again

Chris

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "pr_roark"
<pr_roark@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> ... 
> > I'm very interested in trying Paul's new UT14 inks in a 1400. What I'd
> > like to know is whether the gray inks for the R2 system are the same
> > as for UT14 - ...
> 
> The Eboni is the same in both.  Other than that, the UT14 uses 
> different inks than the R2 inkset.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>

Re: R2 and UT14 inks

2008-07-22 by pr_roark

Hi Chris,


> I've read through your documentation on this inkset and one thing 
I'm
> not clear on is the range of tones it produces (i.e. cool to warm) -
> if I understood the lab charts it would help but I'm afraid I don't
> have a point of reference.
> 
> Presumably the warmest it gets is 100% carbon.

Yes; there is not sepia.  

>  Are the cool inks much cooler than the neutral inks in 
> the R2 system?

Yes.

>  Do they compare with,
> for example, the cool inks in the old VM inkset for the 1290?

No.  Those were, blue toners.  The UT14 cool inks are sufficiently 
neutral that one  can't make a "blue" print.  By having the cool ink 
lower in gamut it makes profiling and consistency easier and more 
reliable.

Hope this helps.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Re: R2 and UT14 inks

2008-07-22 by Chris Ellis

Thanks Paul

If I wanted to go more sepia / blue, presumably I could use the 1900
and add toners (or replace glop with toner in a 1400).  

I think you've recommended the red and blue from the 1800 / 1900
colour inksets in the past - would these be worth exploring?  Or would
you suggest a sepia toner from one of the variable tone inksets?

(I'm aware that you probably haven't tried some of these combinations
but your guidance would be very much appreciated.)

Thanks

Chris

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "pr_roark"
<pr_roark@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hi Chris,
> 
> 
> > I've read through your documentation on this inkset and one thing 
> I'm
> > not clear on is the range of tones it produces (i.e. cool to warm) -
> > if I understood the lab charts it would help but I'm afraid I don't
> > have a point of reference.
> > 
> > Presumably the warmest it gets is 100% carbon.
> 
> Yes; there is not sepia.  
> 
> >  Are the cool inks much cooler than the neutral inks in 
> > the R2 system?
> 
> Yes.
> 
> >  Do they compare with,
> > for example, the cool inks in the old VM inkset for the 1290?
> 
> No.  Those were, blue toners.  The UT14 cool inks are sufficiently 
> neutral that one  can't make a "blue" print.  By having the cool ink 
> lower in gamut it makes profiling and consistency easier and more 
> reliable.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>

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