Doepfer

Whoa!  What a fantastic post!

Thanks, Peter, that's great material and should be enshrined permanently
somewhere on the group site as a .txt file or something.  Enormously
helpful.

--Chuck 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: (i think you can figure that out) 
> [mailto:peter@buzzclick-music.com] 
> Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 12:49 PM
> To: Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Doepfer_a100] Re: Replacement jack - CLIFF
> 
> 
> The original Cliff jacks had a problem with long term spring 
> retention - 'memory' if you will.
> 
> With a lot of usage the retention changes, creating (at times) an 
> insufficient hold on the tip.  The net effect - intermittancy.  Not 
> exactly a feature you look for in a socket!
> 
> Replacement is easy with the right tools - those being solder 
> wick, a good iron with a narrow tip that won't get too hot and a set 
> of spanner wrenches.  In that the pads that these jacks connect 
> to are huge, there's really no worry about lifting them through the 
> use of the solder wick as there is with small pads.
> 
> It's a bit tircky as the solder connections are in some cases on 
> the component side of the board, but really, you just have to get 
> the positioning of the iron down and you're set.
> 
> After removing the PCBA from the faceplate, this is what you do:
> 
> 1) Place a section of solder wick over the solder fillet (junction) 
> you wish to remove.  Solderwick is flat braided copper wire which 
> draws solder into it with heat.
> 
> 2)  Place the iron over the solderwick, applying slight pressure 
> (don't overdo it).  Make sure that you're holding the tip of the iron 
> directly over the solder you wish to remove (remember, that is 
> now covered by the solderwick itself).
> 
> 3) Hold it for a few seconds.  You will see the copper wick 
> become filled with silver.  This is the solder lifting from the area 
> you're wishing to remove and flowing into the wick.
> 
> 4) Lift the iron and the wick.  Vwa- LA!  You'll now see a lead 
> going into a hole with no solder filllet.
> 
> 5) Repeat four times (four terminals of the jack).
> 
> 6) Lift the old jack out - If all the solder has been removed it will 
> come out freely.  If it doesn't, then you haven't removed all of the 
> solder you need to. DON'T TUG!  Look it over, find the section 
> that's still there and repeat the wicking process to that area.
> 
> 7) Place the new jack where the old one once was and solder it's 
> terminals onto the original holes.
> 
> I highly recommend that you use sufficent anti-static precautions 
> when doing this.  Although not all Doepfer modules use CMOS 
> parts,  looking it over to see if it does you might be handling it 
> enough to blap the CMOS if in fact it's there.  It's better 
> to just put 
> on the wrist wrap before and not worry about it.
> 
> Another thing you need to be careful of:  In that Cliff jacks don't 
> use washers under the mounting nuts, when removing the 
> hardware from the faceplate to remove the PCBA, make damn 
> sure you have sockets or spanners. If you use an adjustable 
> cresent wrench,  if the end of that comes in contact with the 
> faceplate, you will scratch a nice (not!) little ring around 
> the holes 
> as you loosen or tighten the hardware.  Won't make too much 
> difference with the pots  as the knob wil cover up any scratches 
> but with jacks you are screwed. . Obviously, you want to avoid 
> that.  Even with spanners or sockets, just look carefuy tomake re 
> i' not down to the faceplate
> 
> I did my LFO last night (six jacks) in about ten minutes.
> 
> hope this helps -
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com, "unknown freak" 
> <vogelscheiss@v...> wrote:
> > Two questions:
> > 
> > -  Could you characterize in a few words what that design issue
> is that
> > they've corrected?  And
> > 
> > -  How difficult is it to swap the jacks, i.e. time required, skill 
> > involved?
> > 
> > 
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: (i think you can figure that out)
> > > [mailto:peter@b...] 
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 11:43 AM
> > > To: Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [Doepfer_a100] Re: Replacement jack - CLIFF
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Analogue Solutions, Analogue Systems and Deopfer all use
> > > CLIFF jacks - they are the manufacturer.  Moog also uses 
> them, 
> > > but in 1/4 inch, not 3.5mm.
> > > 
> > > The problems that probably most of use have seen with
> these 
> > > jacks was due to a design issue that Cliff has since
> corrected.  
> > > Most of the D and A. Sys modules shipped in the ast year
> have 
> > > already had these new jacks installed.
> > > 
> > > Until recently, these jacks weren't availible in te US piece
> parts, 
> > > but CLIFF USA (in the bay area) has got them.
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com, "ps_minor"
> > > <pscottm@h...> wrote:
> > > > thanks for thie info.  who is cliff?
> > > > 
> > > > i have 3 Asys module jacks that need to be replaced.
> > > > 
> > > > cheers, -psm
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > --- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com, "(i think you can
> figure
> > > that out)" <peter@b...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > Doepfites,
> > > > > 
> > > > > I got a handful of the new and improved jacks from Cliff
> last
> > > week
> > > > > to replace the older design inherent  in my D and A. Sys
> > > modules
> > > > > that in some cases had become problematic.
> > > > > 
> > > > > There are definite differences to the spring tension and
> while
> > > it
> > > > > makes for a slightly less smooth insertion 'clunk' , I'm
> pretty 
> > > > > confident these new guys will go the distance.   I 
> recommend 
> > > > > them to anyone who's current jacks may be failing.
> > > > > 
> > > > > - P
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
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