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Fixing Fairlight series I, II IIX monitor "bloom". Photos in gallery.

Fixing Fairlight series I, II IIX monitor "bloom". Photos in gallery.

2006-04-03 by horiprod

Many early I, II and IIX monitors I've seen have been affected by age 
and possibly contamination that results in the screen image becoming 
cloudy, and difficult to see clearly. I picked up a monitor that was 
so bad as to be unusable, so embarked on a "kill or cure" operation. 
I discovered that the CRT screen actually has a thin piece of glass 
like a contact lense, bonded to it with a thick layer of adhesive 
resin (both the contact lense and the resin layer are about 2mm thick 
each). After carefully removing and supporting the tube, I gradually 
worked a sharp knife into the resin gap between the two bits of 
glass, with the idea of removing the contact lense in one piece. 
Unfortunately, the edges seemed to come away easily, whereas the 
screen centre was stuck solid. End result: contact lense cracked. 
Pushing on anyway, I eventually broke off the rest of the bits by 
prising with a screwdriver, cleaned the front with alcohol and re-
assembled. The screen now looks good as new. However, before you 
attempt this yourself, heed these safety WARNINGS. Firstly, CRT tubes 
having a vacuum inside contain a huge amount of energy. If you break 
one, the potential for grief is great. Also, there are voltages in 
the tens of thousands of volts needed to form that lovely green 
image, and some of this remains even when the monitor is 
disconnected. If in doubt, get a TV repair person to look. It's not, 
as we say, the science of the rocket....

Re: [Fairlight-CMI] Fixing Fairlight series I, II IIX monitor "bloom". Photos in gallery.

2006-04-03 by Harald Feldmann

Hi Peter,

This is interesting info. What would happen if you would use a slightly
acidous basin (plastic baby tub ?) and leave the tube partially suspended
in it, face down on three or four small pieces of wood to have the bottom
exposed for a fair time while warming the acid from time to time ?

My intuition would say it will slowly dissolve the resin and the lense
would come off.

However, why was the extra glass added in the first place ? Radiation ?
impact protection ?

What caused the bubbling ? resin deterioration or fungal growth maybe ?

A brave man you are :)

Regards,
Harald.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Many early I, II and IIX monitors I've seen have been affected by age
> and possibly contamination that results in the screen image becoming
> cloudy, and difficult to see clearly. I picked up a monitor that was
> so bad as to be unusable, so embarked on a "kill or cure" operation.
> I discovered that the CRT screen actually has a thin piece of glass
> like a contact lense, bonded to it with a thick layer of adhesive
> resin (both the contact lense and the resin layer are about 2mm thick
> each). After carefully removing and supporting the tube, I gradually
> worked a sharp knife into the resin gap between the two bits of
> glass, with the idea of removing the contact lense in one piece.
> Unfortunately, the edges seemed to come away easily, whereas the
> screen centre was stuck solid. End result: contact lense cracked.
> Pushing on anyway, I eventually broke off the rest of the bits by
> prising with a screwdriver, cleaned the front with alcohol and re-
> assembled. The screen now looks good as new. However, before you
> attempt this yourself, heed these safety WARNINGS. Firstly, CRT tubes
> having a vacuum inside contain a huge amount of energy. If you break
> one, the potential for grief is great. Also, there are voltages in
> the tens of thousands of volts needed to form that lovely green
> image, and some of this remains even when the monitor is
> disconnected. If in doubt, get a TV repair person to look. It's not,
> as we say, the science of the rocket....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Re: Fixing Fairlight series I, II IIX monitor "bloom". Photos in gallery.

2006-04-03 by horiprod

Thanks Adrian. Yes, in the warnings, I should have mentioned shorting
the EHT. Also, wear eye protection, and don't whatever you do attempt
this wearing shorts and no shoes. Oh no.

Peter
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> A Brave man indeed!  
> 
> Peter, you should discharge the picture tube first.
> There is a cable with a big rubber cover that plugs
> into the side of the tube. You should pry a big
> screwdriver into there, making contact with the metal
> connection, and with another big screwdriver, short
> that to chassis. There may be a big spark, but the
> screwdrivers will not be damaged 8^)  and you will
> have discharged the tube (which acts like a big
> capacitor).
> 
> Don't do this with the power on!
> 
> -- Adrian Bruce
> 
> --- Harald Feldmann <feldmann@...> wrote:
> ---------------------------------
> Hi Peter,
> 
> 
> A brave man you are :)
> 
> Regards,
> Harald.
> 
> > one, the potential for grief is great. Also, there
> are voltages in
> > the tens of thousands of volts needed to form that
> lovely green
> > image, and some of this remains even when the
> monitor is
> > disconnected. 
>   
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 	
> 
> 	
> 		
> ____________________________________________________ 
> On Yahoo!7 
> Messenger - Make free PC-to-PC calls to your friends overseas. 
> http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
>

Re: [Fairlight-CMI] Fixing Fairlight series I, II IIX monitor "bloom". Photos in gallery.

2006-04-03 by Megacurve

A Brave man indeed!  

Peter, you should discharge the picture tube first.
There is a cable with a big rubber cover that plugs
into the side of the tube. You should pry a big
screwdriver into there, making contact with the metal
connection, and with another big screwdriver, short
that to chassis. There may be a big spark, but the
screwdrivers will not be damaged 8^)  and you will
have discharged the tube (which acts like a big
capacitor).

Don't do this with the power on!

-- Adrian Bruce

--- Harald Feldmann <feldmann@xs4all.nl> wrote:
---------------------------------
Hi Peter,


A brave man you are :)

Regards,
Harald.

> one, the potential for grief is great. Also, there
are voltages in
> the tens of thousands of volts needed to form that
lovely green
> image, and some of this remains even when the
monitor is
> disconnected. 
  
---------------------------------





	

	
		
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Re: [Fairlight-CMI] Fixing Fairlight series I, II IIX monitor "bloom". Photos in gallery.

2006-04-04 by James Thomson

Hi Adrian,

It's very nice to see you post to the group ! For those of you who don't
know, Adrian is one of the main CMI series 3 designers. Correct me if I am
wrong Adrian ! Also, Adrian was at Fairlight while the CMI 2X was still
being produced.

Regards,


James Thomson

Magic Audio Co.
The Studio
West Hampstead
London NW2 3RJ
U.K.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On 3/4/06 23:39, "Megacurve" <megacurve@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

> 
> A Brave man indeed!
> 
> Peter, you should discharge the picture tube first.
> There is a cable with a big rubber cover that plugs
> into the side of the tube. You should pry a big
> screwdriver into there, making contact with the metal
> connection, and with another big screwdriver, short
> that to chassis. There may be a big spark, but the
> screwdrivers will not be damaged 8^)  and you will
> have discharged the tube (which acts like a big
> capacitor).
> 
> Don't do this with the power on!
> 
> -- Adrian Bruce
> 
> --- Harald Feldmann <feldmann@

Re: [Fairlight-CMI] Fixing Fairlight series I, II IIX monitor "bloom". Photos in gallery.

2006-04-05 by Megacurve

--- James Thomson <jamesthomson@mac.com> wrote:


I'd been told about the list be another lurking
ex-FIer, but didn't join till after Peter Vogel
mentioned it to me.

Was involved with Series 2 and 3 development, and also
stuff that went into the series 1 later production
units...... and haven't had anything to contribute on
the list till now. 

---------------------------------
Hi Adrian,

It's very nice to see you post to the group ! For
those of you who don't
know, Adrian is one of the main CMI series 3
designers. Correct me if I am
wrong Adrian ! Also, Adrian was at Fairlight while the
CMI 2X was still
being produced.

Regards,


James Thomson

Magic Audio Co.
The Studio
West Hampstead
London NW2 3RJ
U.K.








On 3/4/06 23:39, "Megacurve" <megacurve@yahoo.com.au>
wrote:

> 
> A Brave man indeed!
> 
> Peter, you should discharge the picture tube first.
> There is a cable with a big rubber cover that plugs
> into the side of the tube. You should pry a big
> screwdriver into there, making contact with the
metal
> connection, and with another big screwdriver, short
> that to chassis. There may be a big spark, but the
> screwdrivers will not be damaged 8^)  and you will
> have discharged the tube (which acts like a big
> capacitor).
> 
> Don't do this with the power on!
> 
> -- Adrian Bruce
> 
> --- Harald Feldmann <feldmann@

      

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