Homebrew PCBs

I do have some sockets going on this board, but if I recall 
correctly, I can put a shim of wood under the socket which lifts it 
up enough to solder it pretty easily (as you can tell from that 
comment, I have been down this path befor).  I still have those 
shims from the last time so I guess I knew I would do it again :-)

You might be onto something with heating the toner, after transfer, 
with a hot air gun.  I suspect it will flow out and turn shiny.  I 
too will try that on my next job.

See you at the meeting!

Chris




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> That club is pretty big and meets EVERY day...
> 
> It is very easy to fall into that trap.  One way to make sure you 
get
> it right is to put text on copper layers that tells you which way 
it
> should go.  I used to put "stop" on the top layer and know that, 
if I
> can read it on the transfer art, it's wrong.  "Bot" on the bottom
> reads correctly.  If I can read it forward on the transfer art, its
> wrong.  If my cad package allowed me to I'd put "stop" reversed on 
the
> bottom layer.
> 
> if you try to use the other side, keep in mind that you don't have
> plated through holes and will need to solder on the side where a 
trace
> comes into a pad.  you can do it for most parts but sockets, 
relays,
> many connectors and radial electrolyics are impossible.  You can 
even
> pry up the plastic pads on pin headers and solder the top side.
> 
> By the way, watch out for relays when you make library parts.  All 
the
> relay datasheets seem to have the pinouts shown from the bottom 
side.
>  I had to chuck a board because of that - stupid me for not dry
> testing it first.
> 
> Phil
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing"
> <lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
> > Well,
> > 
> > I just realized all this back patting I am giving myself for 
making 
> > some really good boards and come to find out I screwed up big 
time.  I 
> > mirrored the image for the solder side and I shouldn't have done 
that, 
> > now everything is backwards.
> > 
> > I think I may still use them if it can put the components on the 
trace 
> > side, that should "re-reverse" everything.
> > 
> > Live and learn right :-(