Homebrew PCBs

Hmmm, this is interesting!

I let the board etch until I really felt it was "done".  With that 
yellow ink, it is very tough to tell the "masked" areas once the 
etchant gets on the board.  But, it looks as though I can see the 
bristle lines from the coarse brush I used.  The solid area I 
covered appears to be solid.  

I am running another test right now.  This time I pre-etched the 
board just for 10 seconds or so - to remove the gloss.  I then got 
some more ink out of the cartridge and wrote my name with a short 
piece of solder that I was dipping into the puddle.  Using a 
sharpie, I drew a square box around that so I would know where to 
look.  I also did another "Flood fill" area to see how it works 
again in that.

I really think this is going to work guys - more in a few minutes!

Chris




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing" 
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
>
> Well, in about 10~15 minutes we should know something, what, I 
don't 
> know :-)
> 
> I got some ink out of that cartridge.  I used a piece of wire to 
> smear some around on the PCB board. I also shook it to get a few 
> drops out and used a coarse brush to "paint it" on the board.  
Using 
> two sample boards....
> 
> 1) I hit with the heat gun for a few seconds to make sure the ink 
> was dry.
> 
> 2) didn't do anything special - just let the ink air dry for a few 
> minutes.  
> 
> Do not expect positive results though.  This is yellow ink, and 
> being yellow it won't have much pigment in it like the black stuff 
> has.  Which is why I think certain color sharies work bettter than 
> others.
> 
> To answer stefans main question and the one I too suspected would 
be 
> a problem - beading.  Nope, I could not see any evidence that this 
> ink would bead up.  
> 
> I also did not do anything the to PCB material.  It was a cut off 
> piece that I know is pretty decent quality as I just etched a few 
> other boards from it a few days ago.
> 
> I am etching in ferric chloride so that is the etchant for my test.
>