Homebrew PCBs

Yesterday I spent a good amount of time trying several different 
inks and board temps. 

Using the C84 and Epson Magenta TO443 (Probably is not the correct 
ink) with the board heated to 75C and a cure of 235C the ink came 
off the board in the etch. Etchant was fresh HCl/H2O2 (FCl might not 
do this, but I had none). 

Also I tried a MIS Heat Transfer Yellow (HT-4-Y) this produced a 
partial resist but not workable.

I then tried the MIS yellow (MP-4-Y) we have been using with the 
heated board with good results. I made a series of 5 boards using 
this yellow from 75C to 105C all with about the same success. The 
boards are heated in the oven for several minutes to stabilize the 
temp and then removed and positioned in the printer. I am sure there 
is heat loss during the process. The great news is this board 
heating does handle the puddling effect that has been such a pain. 
The dry time for the ink is just about instantaneous on the heated 
boards as you might imagine. Seemed the higher the heat the better 
the coating of the ink.
The best board came out with .004 runs. Better than I achieved in 
the past .005.
The other interesting aspect was one of better resist with less ink 
being deposited on the board. What I did on one of the tests was to 
forget to remove the silkscreen nomenclature before I printed the 
board. The effect was a lighter application of the ink in those 
areas. I went ahead a processed the board expecting that this light 
coating would just be etched off anyway. To my surprise the 
nomenclature came out in good shape. 
I need to run more test with varying amounts of ink. Out of time 
right now...

On another suject I posted a pix of my curing oven in the "Mardock 
Projects" folder. I have enough parts to build several of these. I 
can supply some parts/boards/schematics/software(in asm) for those 
interested in converting their own. Not for profit but rather to 
help the cause...
Contact me offline j@... if interested.
John