Homebrew PCBs

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Fri, 02 Feb 2007 17:22:02 +0100, Lez <lez.briddon@...> wrote:
> 
> > Does different toner have different melting points etc,
> > wondering if when I fianlly have to refil this old 4l,
> >if I should get black, or blue/red whatever

  I've measured melting points for two toners, the original
toner in my HP LaserJet 6L, and the eBay toner I used to
refill my Samsung ML-1710.

  They don't abruptly transition from solid to liquid, but
become soft and waxy, then sticky, then  gooey, so "melting
point" needs clarification.

  The HP toner could be smeared with a hot iron at 103+/-3
deg. C.  The refill toner smeared at 99+/-2 deg. C.

  There's a decorative metallic transfer film you can iron
on to laser-printed text.  I measured the temperatures needed
to transfer: 110 +/- 3 deg C for the HP, and 81 +/- 3 deg C
for the refill stuff.

 
> Generally i would tend towards the original cartridges
> rather than remanufactured ones or even refilling, i
> had bad luck with those. Ebay is a good source for
> original carts that are past their use by date but still  
> work fine. I am told good refill toner is just the same,
> but i'm still reluctant.


  The refill toner I used was from TonerKits on eBay--
cheap, great service.  I just poured it in & prints as
well or better on paper than the original. No differences
for toner transfer noticed.


> I used old copier toner of which i have lots and lots
> of in HP IIID carts, and it must be very different
> (finer maybe). It would apply way too much to the
> magnetic transfer roller, and i had to completely  
> remove those "spacers" for the scraper. It will work
> just fine for text prints now, but not so good for PCBs.
> 
> Anyway, it would be interesting if someone knows a bulk
> toner that works well, but it may still not work the same
> in all printers.
> 
> ST

  I've no idea how suitable it is, but I have 1,4Kg of
Toshiba T-6560 toner!

  James Arthur