On Jan 31, 2008 11:27 PM, eeks123 <eeks123@...> wrote: > yes, air flow and small components are apparently a bad combination. i > suppose it's a try-and-try-again until you learn which distance is > best, taking care where you point with the gun at, how much time a > component can be exposed to that temperature, etc. you can solder a > lot faster than with an oven, but you need to learn how to work with > it. plus chances to damage something seem to be higher, when > learning/starting Actually, once the solder is reflowed there is no problem. The surface tension of solder is huge. It is no problem to use hot air on components that are already soldered, unless you select a really much too high air setting. The problem is when reflowing fresh paste. Some types have a flux that "melts", resulting in puddles of flux/solder mixture. Other types don't seem to run about so much. Also, there is not that much chance of damage. It appears the heat is "softer" than the heat shock from an iron. Even if component manufacturers only guarantee two solder cycles or so, you can usually reflow a component many times without damage. The same is true for damage to the PCB. I have swapped components with hot air 20, 30 times for sure, without any harm to the PCB pads. As long as the temperature is correct and you do not apply force all is well. > > i didn't knew there are two types, i supposed all components would > swim, and that was also a reason to use soldermask -to avoid > solderpaste flowing away through tracks-. so the first one is better > but has a shorter shelf-life :( how do you know which type of > solderpaste you are buying? through composition? There are definitely large differences in paste viscosity during heating. The one i use now is Edsyn CR44. This stuff could never be used for mass production, it melts like chocolate when you get near it with the heat. But it dries very slowly, making it practical for lab use. I have tried other types but the syringes either came half dry or dried before i could use them up. Some pastes dry up instead of melting, with those there is virtually none of that puddle making. Alloy composition seems to be of little consequence in this regard, the flux and other additives seem more important. Traces don't carry away much solder, and you can always apply a little extra if broad traces connect. Remember surface tension, solder _likes_ to make a nice fillet between component and PCB. It does not like to spread out in a flat sheet. > i've seen this explained on a webpage, it's important the way tracks > go to the component, and also if there any very near to it. You've done your homework then. Don't think to much about it though, you'll quickly learn what to avoid by experience and the faults are easy to rework even if something is pulled where it shouldn't go. ST
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by Stefan Trethan
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