Hey, I was going to call you that ;-) I haven't got the electron microscope out, but I believe the layer of plastic is topped with some sizing. It's certainly sticky on top, and certainly not water soluble which is why you have to reasonably vigourously toothbrush the whole affair once you've soaked the paper off (it's pretty brittle once you've got the paper away). It could be molybdenum, it cold be ectoplasm, but there's *something* coating the best paper I've used, and it's insoluble, thin, and toner cannot pass through it onto the wood fibres. PG On 14/04/2009, at 1:25 AM, Roland F. Harriston wrote: > All of the inkjet "gloss" papers that I have seen were coated with a > polished clay layer. > A "plastic" layer would not absorb the wetness of inkjet ink, clay > does > an still renders > a "glossy" appearance. "Plastic" (nearly all polymers) would melt and > distort under the > heat of an iron or a laminator. And, I don't think that any sensible > photocopy operator > would want to run an unknown "plastic" material through a copy > machine. > There is > heat required to "fuse" the toner material. > > Additionally, "plastic" (polymers)" are difficult to dissolve in > water. > > Roland F. Harriston, PD > (Pedantic Douche) > ********************* >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Which paper for toner transfer, traces and silk screen
2009-04-13 by Piers Goodhew
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