Homebrew PCBs

Hi,

I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
stated below link.
http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html

I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for proper
toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for that
laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.

My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers including
the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the HP
toner.

Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use another
printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?


GN

<http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html>

2010/9/19 RDHeiliger <rdheiliger@...>

>
>
> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low temperature
> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get the
> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted. The
> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
> laminator.
>
> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate on
> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear motor
> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also did
> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor looks
> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that rides on
> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases the
> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced the
> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I also
> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The crimp
> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the nichrome
> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May sound
> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
>
> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over just
> using paper for the transfer.
>
> RD
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


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