Homebrew PCBs

I see a lot of the "Creative" 170860 model laminators for sale
on the web.
But not the "Personal" model, don't know the model # maybe someone else
does.
Mouser use to carry them but they're out.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GBC-PERSONAL-LAMINATOR-50-1301/?qs=KM10vAbi7Ng2vm0SVCREcQ%3d%3d

My understanding is the "Creative" model aren't so great for toner transfer.
Cause they lack dual heat control, no switch on the side.

What the hell happened to the "Personal" model?
Doesn't anybody sell them anymore?

Was thinking of getting an Tamerica LP-120 if I can get one less than $50. but so far no dice.

Try DigiKey:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=182-1031-ND

This is the one Pulsar recommends. But it only does 1/32" boards. After a 
learning curve it works fine for me.

Bob Macklin
K5MYJ
Seattle, Wa.
"Real Radios Glow In The Dark"
----- Original Message ----- 

From: "acidblue" <sunblaster5@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 6:15 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] GBC Laminators


>I see a lot of the "Creative" 170860 model laminators for sale
> on the web.
> But not the "Personal" model, don't know the model # maybe someone else
> does.
> Mouser use to carry them but they're out.
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GBC-PERSONAL-LAMINATOR-50-1301/?qs=KM10vAbi7Ng2vm0SVCREcQ%3d%3d
>
> My understanding is the "Creative" model aren't so great for toner 
> transfer.
> Cause they lack dual heat control, no switch on the side.
>
> What the hell happened to the "Personal" model?
> Doesn't anybody sell them anymore?
>
> Was thinking of getting an Tamerica LP-120 if I can get one less than $50. 
> but so far no dice.
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Yep, the 170860 seems to be about the only cheap version left, but at $20 it seems to work ok.  I checked the roller temperature and it seems to max out around 320ºF.  If only 1 board is done at a time, it works ok.  Just wait until the green LED comes on, then run board thru a few times and it works ok.  If too much time goes after LED comes on, the roller temperature drops to around 150F before starting to heat again.

I have used it with .062" boards, but it works better if all edges are beveled a bit.  Easier to start, and doesn't pop so much when board rolls out of roller.

That Tamerica LP-120 looks good, but only 4.5" width?  That would cover 95% of my boards.  At 160ºC it gets plenty hot for toner transfer.

Ken H>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "acidblue" <sunblaster5@...> wrote:

>
> I see a lot of the "Creative" 170860 model laminators for sale
> on the web.
> But not the "Personal" model, don't know the model # maybe someone else
> does.
> Mouser use to carry them but they're out.
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GBC-PERSONAL-LAMINATOR-50-1301/?qs=KM10vAbi7Ng2vm0SVCREcQ%3d%3d
> 
> My understanding is the "Creative" model aren't so great for toner transfer.
> Cause they lack dual heat control, no switch on the side.
> 
> What the hell happened to the "Personal" model?
> Doesn't anybody sell them anymore?
> 
> Was thinking of getting an Tamerica LP-120 if I can get one less than $50. but so far no dice.
>

I use the variable temperature Tamerica LP-120 and it does a fine job tranferring the HP toners at 160 deg. C. I turn it on for about 10 min before use so that the rollers come to temperature equilibrium. The only adjustment that might be necessary is the roller pressure which can be done by opening the case and relaxing the pressure with two spring screw adjustments.

To further confuse the issue of GBC laminators, here is a very nice walkthrough for increasing the temperature of the European version (and I suspect the US version, also) of the Creative model:

http://ultrakeet.com.au/index.php?id=article&name=superfuser

and the US Personal version,

http://ultrakeet.com.au/index.php?id=article&name=fritzHack

The pictures show that the temperature control innards of these two laminators are completely different.

Baxter

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "acidblue" <sunblaster5@...> wrote:

>
> I see a lot of the "Creative" 170860 model laminators for sale
> on the web.
> But not the "Personal" model, don't know the model # maybe someone else
> does.
> Mouser use to carry them but they're out.
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GBC-PERSONAL-LAMINATOR-50-1301/?qs=KM10vAbi7Ng2vm0SVCREcQ%3d%3d
> 
> My understanding is the "Creative" model aren't so great for toner transfer.
> Cause they lack dual heat control, no switch on the side.
> 
> What the hell happened to the "Personal" model?
> Doesn't anybody sell them anymore?
> 
> Was thinking of getting an Tamerica LP-120 if I can get one less than $50. but so far no dice.
>

I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low temperature toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get the toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted. The roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this laminator.

 I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate on this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear motor and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also did not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor looks to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that rides on the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases the temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced the spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I also had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The crimp connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the nichrome elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May sound like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.

The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over just using paper for the transfer. 

RD

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,

You are right the temperature is to high for the side walls to resist.

I have been obliged to mill new ones in epoxy. Here you can find the CAD files if you want to do the same : http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/GBC_laminator_mod/

JP

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "RDHeiliger" <rdheiliger@...> wrote:

>
> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low temperature toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get the toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted. The roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this laminator.
> 
>  I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate on this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear motor and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also did not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor looks to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that rides on the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases the temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced the spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I also had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The crimp connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the nichrome elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May sound like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
> 
> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over just using paper for the transfer. 
> 
> RD
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi,

I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
stated below link.
http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html

I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for proper
toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for that
laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.

My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers including
the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the HP
toner.

Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use another
printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?


GN

<http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html>

2010/9/19 RDHeiliger <rdheiliger@...>

>
>
> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low temperature
> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get the
> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted. The
> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
> laminator.
>
> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate on
> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear motor
> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also did
> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor looks
> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that rides on
> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases the
> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced the
> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I also
> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The crimp
> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the nichrome
> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May sound
> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
>
> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over just
> using paper for the transfer.
>
> RD
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Try multiple passes of your board through the laminator. I am using 8 passes 
with my GSB laminator and seem to be doing OK.

Bob Macklin
K5MYJ
Seattle, Wa.
"Real Radios Glow In The Dark"

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gokhan Nalbant" <gokhan.nalbant@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:GBC Laminators


Hi,

I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
stated below link.
http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html

I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
temperature should be around 150\ufffdC and that should be sufficient for proper
toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for that
laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.

My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers including
the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
successful using an iron, it seems that 150\ufffdC is not enough to heat the HP
toner.

Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use another
printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?


GN

<http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html>

2010/9/19 RDHeiliger <rdheiliger@...>

>
>
> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low 
> temperature
> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get 
> the
> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted. The
> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
> laminator.
>
> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate 
> on
> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear motor
> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also 
> did
> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor 
> looks
> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that rides 
> on
> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases 
> the
> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced the
> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I 
> also
> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The crimp
> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the nichrome
> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May sound
> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
>
> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over just
> using paper for the transfer.
>
> RD
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links

8 passes! Wow, I see I should try more since I left after the 5th pass.

Thank you :)

GN

2010/9/19 Bob Macklin <macklinbob@...>

>
>
> Try multiple passes of your board through the laminator. I am using 8
> passes
> with my GSB laminator and seem to be doing OK.
>
>
> Bob Macklin
> K5MYJ
> Seattle, Wa.
> "Real Radios Glow In The Dark"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gokhan Nalbant" <gokhan.nalbant@...<gokhan.nalbant%40gmail.com>
> >
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>>
> Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:50 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:GBC Laminators
>
> Hi,
>
> I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
> stated below link.
>
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
>
> I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
> temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for proper
> toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for that
> laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
>
> My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
> including
> the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
> successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the HP
> toner.
>
> Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use another
> printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
>
> GN
>
> <
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >
>
> 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger <rdheiliger@... <rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
>
> >
> >
> > I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> > lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
> > temperature
> > toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> > higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get
> > the
> > toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> > transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted. The
> > roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
> > laminator.
> >
> > I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate
> > on
> > this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear motor
> > and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also
> > did
> > not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
> > looks
> > to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that rides
>
> > on
> > the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases
> > the
> > temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced the
> > spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
> > also
> > had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The crimp
> > connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> > copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
> nichrome
> > elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
> sound
> > like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
> > takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
> >
> > The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> > laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over just
> > using paper for the transfer.
> >
> > RD
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,

150+C is definitvely not enough

I have climbed up to 190\ufffdC (peak)

You shoud increase your resistor a bit (7 K ohm)

JP

Le 19/09/2010 20:50, Gokhan Nalbant a \ufffdcrit :

> Hi,
>
> I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
> stated below link.
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
>
> I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
> temperature should be around 150\ufffdC and that should be sufficient for proper
> toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for that
> laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
>
> My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers including
> the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
> successful using an iron, it seems that 150\ufffdC is not enough to heat the HP
> toner.
>
> Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use another
> printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
>
>
> GN
>
> <http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html>
>
> 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger<rdheiliger@...>
>
>>
>> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
>> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low temperature
>> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
>> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get the
>> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
>> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted. The
>> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
>> laminator.
>>
>> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate on
>> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear motor
>> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also did
>> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor looks
>> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that rides on
>> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases the
>> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced the
>> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I also
>> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The crimp
>> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
>> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the nichrome
>> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May sound
>> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
>> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
>>
>> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
>> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over just
>> using paper for the transfer.
>>
>> RD
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Well, if the laminator can stand that high temperature I prefer this method,
since my HP toner needs 170�C, I suppose. Using thick epoxy gives enough
headache to the laminator, so decreasing the number of passes can be a
better way. I don't have any resistor around 7K, the nearest one is 6K8 1/4w
metal film %1 tolerance. Would it be too low?

Regards.

GN

2010/9/19 freedom2000 <freedom2000@...>

>
>
> Hi,
>
> 150+C is definitvely not enough
>
> I have climbed up to 190�C (peak)
>
> You shoud increase your resistor a bit (7 K ohm)
>
> JP
>
> Le 19/09/2010 20:50, Gokhan Nalbant a �crit :
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
> > stated below link.
> >
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >
> > I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
> > temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for
> proper
> > toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for
> that
> > laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
> >
> > My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
> including
> > the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
> > successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the
> HP
> > toner.
> >
> > Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use
> another
> > printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
> >
> >
> > GN
> >
> > <
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >
> >
> > 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger<rdheiliger@... <rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
> >
> >>
> >> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> >> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
> temperature
> >> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> >> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get
> the
> >> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> >> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted.
> The
> >> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
> >> laminator.
> >>
> >> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate
> on
> >> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear
> motor
> >> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also
> did
> >> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
> looks
> >> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that
> rides on
> >> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases
> the
> >> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced
> the
> >> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
> also
> >> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The
> crimp
> >> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> >> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
> nichrome
> >> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
> sound
> >> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
> >> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
> >>
> >> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> >> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over
> just
> >> using paper for the transfer.
> >>
> >> RD
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
>
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

6;8 k should be OK

The best way is to put a trim resistor so that you can adjust easily the 
value.
A friend of mine bought exactly the same GBC as mine, and his resistor 
value wasn't the same as mine for the same temperature !

You should always check the temperature and stop the laminator if it 
climbs aboce 195\ufffd C

The epoxy walls are really perfect, they don't deform at all.
Furthermore the little "cut" across the wall acts as a spring and allow 
deformation when the PCB is to thick

I have already milled 3 laminators.
Two are working like a charm and I have no news of the third one (should 
be OK too !)

JP


Le 19/09/2010 23:16, Gokhan Nalbant a \ufffdcrit :

> Well, if the laminator can stand that high temperature I prefer this method,
> since my HP toner needs 170\ufffdC, I suppose. Using thick epoxy gives enough
> headache to the laminator, so decreasing the number of passes can be a
> better way. I don't have any resistor around 7K, the nearest one is 6K8 1/4w
> metal film %1 tolerance. Would it be too low?
>
> Regards.
>
> GN
>
> 2010/9/19 freedom2000<freedom2000@...>
>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> 150+C is definitvely not enough
>>
>> I have climbed up to 190\ufffdC (peak)
>>
>> You shoud increase your resistor a bit (7 K ohm)
>>
>> JP
>>
>> Le 19/09/2010 20:50, Gokhan Nalbant a \ufffdcrit :
>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
>>> stated below link.
>>>
>> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
>>> I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
>>> temperature should be around 150\ufffdC and that should be sufficient for
>> proper
>>> toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for
>> that
>>> laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
>>>
>>> My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
>> including
>>> the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
>>> successful using an iron, it seems that 150\ufffdC is not enough to heat the
>> HP
>>> toner.
>>>
>>> Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use
>> another
>>> printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
>>>
>>>
>>> GN
>>>
>>> <
>> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
>>>
>>> 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger<rdheiliger@...<rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
>>>
>>>> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
>>>> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
>> temperature
>>>> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
>>>> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get
>> the
>>>> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
>>>> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted.
>> The
>>>> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
>>>> laminator.
>>>>
>>>> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate
>> on
>>>> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear
>> motor
>>>> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also
>> did
>>>> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
>> looks
>>>> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that
>> rides on
>>>> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases
>> the
>>>> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced
>> the
>>>> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
>> also
>>>> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The
>> crimp
>>>> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
>>>> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
>> nichrome
>>>> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
>> sound
>>>> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
>>>> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
>>>>
>>>> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
>>>> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over
>> just
>>>> using paper for the transfer.
>>>>
>>>> RD
>>>>
>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Thank you for the valueable information.

I have a multimeter with a temperature measument probe. I'll check the rolls
to ensure that they are below 195�C.

I'll just try 6K8 resistor and measure the temperature, if it is around
170�C then I'll leave like that. Otherwise I can solder a 10K trimpot and
check the temperature.

Regards.

GN


2010/9/20 freedom2000 <freedom2000@...>

>
>
> 6;8 k should be OK
>
> The best way is to put a trim resistor so that you can adjust easily the
> value.
> A friend of mine bought exactly the same GBC as mine, and his resistor
> value wasn't the same as mine for the same temperature !
>
> You should always check the temperature and stop the laminator if it
> climbs aboce 195� C
>
> The epoxy walls are really perfect, they don't deform at all.
> Furthermore the little "cut" across the wall acts as a spring and allow
> deformation when the PCB is to thick
>
> I have already milled 3 laminators.
> Two are working like a charm and I have no news of the third one (should
> be OK too !)
>
> JP
>
> Le 19/09/2010 23:16, Gokhan Nalbant a �crit :
>
> > Well, if the laminator can stand that high temperature I prefer this
> method,
> > since my HP toner needs 170�C, I suppose. Using thick epoxy gives enough
> > headache to the laminator, so decreasing the number of passes can be a
> > better way. I don't have any resistor around 7K, the nearest one is 6K8
> 1/4w
> > metal film %1 tolerance. Would it be too low?
> >
> > Regards.
> >
> > GN
> >
> > 2010/9/19 freedom2000<freedom2000@... <freedom2000%40free.fr>>
> >
> >>
> >> Hi,
> >>
> >> 150+C is definitvely not enough
> >>
> >> I have climbed up to 190�C (peak)
> >>
> >> You shoud increase your resistor a bit (7 K ohm)
> >>
> >> JP
> >>
> >> Le 19/09/2010 20:50, Gokhan Nalbant a �crit :
> >>
> >>> Hi,
> >>>
> >>> I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions
> as
> >>> stated below link.
> >>>
> >>
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >>> I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
> >>> temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for
> >> proper
> >>> toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for
> >> that
> >>> laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
> >>>
> >>> My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
> >> including
> >>> the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
> >>> successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the
> >> HP
> >>> toner.
> >>>
> >>> Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use
> >> another
> >>> printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> GN
> >>>
> >>> <
> >>
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >>>
> >>> 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger<rdheiliger@... <rdheiliger%40msn.com>
> <rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
>
> >>>
> >>>> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> >>>> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
> >> temperature
> >>>> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> >>>> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to
> get
> >> the
> >>>> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> >>>> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted.
> >> The
> >>>> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend
> this
> >>>> laminator.
> >>>>
> >>>> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed
> rate
> >> on
> >>>> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear
> >> motor
> >>>> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control
> also
> >> did
> >>>> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
> >> looks
> >>>> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that
> >> rides on
> >>>> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll
> increases
> >> the
> >>>> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced
> >> the
> >>>> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
> >> also
> >>>> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The
> >> crimp
> >>>> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> >>>> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
> >> nichrome
> >>>> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
> >> sound
> >>>> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It
> still
> >>>> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
> >>>>
> >>>> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> >>>> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over
> >> just
> >>>> using paper for the transfer.
> >>>>
> >>>> RD
> >>>>
> >>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ------------------------------------
> >>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> >> Photos:
> >>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

6.8k should be OK

With my 10k trimpot I am now at 6.9k  !!

But beware that at these temperatures the side walls have e real tendency to melt ...

JP
----- Mail Original -----
De: "Gokhan Nalbant" <gokhan.nalbant@...>
À: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé: Lundi 20 Septembre 2010 00h02:26 GMT +01:00 Amsterdam / Berlin / Berne / Rome / Stockholm / Vienne
Objet: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:GBC Laminators

Thank you for the valueable information.

I have a multimeter with a temperature measument probe. I'll check the rolls
to ensure that they are below 195�C.

I'll just try 6K8 resistor and measure the temperature, if it is around
170�C then I'll leave like that. Otherwise I can solder a 10K trimpot and
check the temperature.

Regards.

GN


2010/9/20 freedom2000 <freedom2000@...>

>
>
> 6;8 k should be OK
>
> The best way is to put a trim resistor so that you can adjust easily the
> value.
> A friend of mine bought exactly the same GBC as mine, and his resistor
> value wasn't the same as mine for the same temperature !
>
> You should always check the temperature and stop the laminator if it
> climbs aboce 195� C
>
> The epoxy walls are really perfect, they don't deform at all.
> Furthermore the little "cut" across the wall acts as a spring and allow
> deformation when the PCB is to thick
>
> I have already milled 3 laminators.
> Two are working like a charm and I have no news of the third one (should
> be OK too !)
>
> JP
>
> Le 19/09/2010 23:16, Gokhan Nalbant a �crit :
>
> > Well, if the laminator can stand that high temperature I prefer this
> method,
> > since my HP toner needs 170�C, I suppose. Using thick epoxy gives enough
> > headache to the laminator, so decreasing the number of passes can be a
> > better way. I don't have any resistor around 7K, the nearest one is 6K8
> 1/4w
> > metal film %1 tolerance. Would it be too low?
> >
> > Regards.
> >
> > GN
> >
> > 2010/9/19 freedom2000<freedom2000@... <freedom2000%40free.fr>>
> >
> >>
> >> Hi,
> >>
> >> 150+C is definitvely not enough
> >>
> >> I have climbed up to 190�C (peak)
> >>
> >> You shoud increase your resistor a bit (7 K ohm)
> >>
> >> JP
> >>
> >> Le 19/09/2010 20:50, Gokhan Nalbant a �crit :
> >>
> >>> Hi,
> >>>
> >>> I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions
> as
> >>> stated below link.
> >>>
> >>
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >>> I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
> >>> temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for
> >> proper
> >>> toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for
> >> that
> >>> laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
> >>>
> >>> My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
> >> including
> >>> the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
> >>> successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the
> >> HP
> >>> toner.
> >>>
> >>> Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use
> >> another
> >>> printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> GN
> >>>
> >>> <
> >>
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >>>
> >>> 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger<rdheiliger@... <rdheiliger%40msn.com>
> <rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
>
> >>>
> >>>> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> >>>> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
> >> temperature
> >>>> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> >>>> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to
> get
> >> the
> >>>> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> >>>> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted.
> >> The
> >>>> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend
> this
> >>>> laminator.
> >>>>
> >>>> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed
> rate
> >> on
> >>>> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear
> >> motor
> >>>> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control
> also
> >> did
> >>>> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
> >> looks
> >>>> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that
> >> rides on
> >>>> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll
> increases
> >> the
> >>>> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced
> >> the
> >>>> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
> >> also
> >>>> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The
> >> crimp
> >>>> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> >>>> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
> >> nichrome
> >>>> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
> >> sound
> >>>> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It
> still
> >>>> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
> >>>>
> >>>> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> >>>> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over
> >> just
> >>>> using paper for the transfer.
> >>>>
> >>>> RD
> >>>>
> >>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ------------------------------------
> >>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> >> Photos:
> >>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links

To clarify: you mean fiberglass epoxy, as I recall. You used standard PCB stock without copper, didn't you?

I was fortunate to find a GBC laminator at a thrift store last week. Not only does it have digital temperature readout, it has variable speed control. I haven't tried toner transfer with it yet, but I'm hoping the slowest speed may allow fewer passes. Perhaps even a single pass as it is quite slow.

Thanks for posting those CAD files!

Steve Greenfield AE7HD

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@...> wrote:

>
> Hi,
> 
> You are right the temperature is to high for the side walls to resist.
> 
> I have been obliged to mill new ones in epoxy. Here you can find the CAD files if you want to do the same : http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/GBC_laminator_mod/
> 
> JP
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, freedom2000 <freedom2000@...> wrote:
>
>> I have already milled 3 laminators.
> Two are working like a charm and I have no news of the third one (should 
> be OK too !)
> 
> JP

To my shame I haven't modded the laminator yet - I have yet to go to the other side of town to get some bolts or studding to secure the motor.

Cheers

Derryck

Don't be ashamed Derrick, we all know that spare time is difficult to find :-) 

JP 
----- Mail Original ----- 
De: "Derryck" <derryck@...> 
À: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> 
Envoyé: Lundi 20 Septembre 2010 16h13:11 GMT +01:00 Amsterdam / Berlin / Berne / Rome / Stockholm / Vienne 
Objet: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:GBC Laminators 








--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com , freedom2000 <freedom2000@...> wrote: 
> 
>> I have already milled 3 laminators. 
> Two are working like a charm and I have no news of the third one (should 
> be OK too !) 
> 
> JP 

To my shame I haven't modded the laminator yet - I have yet to go to the other side of town to get some bolts or studding to secure the motor. 

Cheers 

Derryck 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

right : fiberglass epoxy ! 

But I did the third one with CEM epoxy pcb (copper side to be removed !) 

JP 
----- Mail Original ----- 
De: "alienrelics" <alienrelics@...> 
À: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> 
Envoyé: Lundi 20 Septembre 2010 15h31:57 GMT +01:00 Amsterdam / Berlin / Berne / Rome / Stockholm / Vienne 
Objet: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:GBC Laminators 






To clarify: you mean fiberglass epoxy, as I recall. You used standard PCB stock without copper, didn't you? 

I was fortunate to find a GBC laminator at a thrift store last week. Not only does it have digital temperature readout, it has variable speed control. I haven't tried toner transfer with it yet, but I'm hoping the slowest speed may allow fewer passes. Perhaps even a single pass as it is quite slow. 

Thanks for posting those CAD files! 

Steve Greenfield AE7HD 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com , "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@...> wrote: 
> 
> Hi, 
> 
> You are right the temperature is to high for the side walls to resist. 
> 
> I have been obliged to mill new ones in epoxy. Here you can find the CAD files if you want to do the same : http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/GBC_laminator_mod/ 
> 
> JP 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Instead of milling new side frames for a $25 laminator, I would recommend buying a $65 laminator that has four rollers instead of two, and has steel frames and case. Also the temperature can be raised by simply moving the sensor about 1/4" from the rollers. The roller pressure can also be lowered with 4 screws from the bottom. Note that I replaced the 10 rpm AC  motor with a 12 VDC 2 rpm gear motor. I get good transfers with 3 passes. 

http://www.amazon.com/Apache-AL13P-Professional-Laminator-Document/dp/B0012UEQ5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284997741&sr=8-1



I also found that I need about 10-15 *C higher temperature with 1/16 board than 1/32 board.

RD



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I don't understand what is wrong with making multiple passes with these GBC 
laminators if that works. It only takes me a few minutes to make 8 passes!

Bob Macklin
K5MYJ
Seattle, Wa.
"Real Radios Glow In The Dark"

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "RDHeiliger" <rdheiliger@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 9:08 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC Laminators


> Instead of milling new side frames for a $25 laminator, I would recommend 
> buying a $65 laminator that has four rollers instead of two, and has steel 
> frames and case. Also the temperature can be raised by simply moving the 
> sensor about 1/4" from the rollers. The roller pressure can also be 
> lowered with 4 screws from the bottom. Note that I replaced the 10 rpm AC 
> motor with a 12 VDC 2 rpm gear motor. I get good transfers with 3 passes.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Apache-AL13P-Professional-Laminator-Document/dp/B0012UEQ5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284997741&sr=8-1
>
>
>
> I also found that I need about 10-15 *C higher temperature with 1/16 board 
> than 1/32 board.
>
> RD
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

There's nothing wrong with it, just as there is nothing wrong with
improving something that appears acceptable to others as-is.

I like that I only need on pass with my fuser unit driven by a geared
motor. If I remember right the speed is approx. 30cm per minute (one
foot per minute).

ST

On Mon, Sep 20, 2010 at 6:40 PM, Bob Macklin <macklinbob@...> wrote:
> I don't understand what is wrong with making multiple passes with these GBC
> laminators if that works. It only takes me a few minutes to make 8 passes!
>
> Bob Macklin
> K5MYJ
> Seattle, Wa.
> "Real Radios Glow In The Dark"
>

RD,

Thanks for the link. The Apache AL13P Professional appears to be a great laminator for the price.

Could you elaborate on the placement of the temperature sensor? Do you move it closer or farther from the rollers? Also, will the readout give the correct temperature after the adjustment?

Baxter

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "RDHeiliger" <rdheiliger@...> wrote:

>
> Instead of milling new side frames for a $25 laminator, I would recommend buying a $65 laminator that has four rollers instead of two, and has steel frames and case. Also the temperature can be raised by simply moving the sensor about 1/4" from the rollers. The roller pressure can also be lowered with 4 screws from the bottom. Note that I replaced the 10 rpm AC  motor with a 12 VDC 2 rpm gear motor. I get good transfers with 3 passes. 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Apache-AL13P-Professional-Laminator-Document/dp/B0012UEQ5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284997741&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> 
> I also found that I need about 10-15 *C higher temperature with 1/16 board than 1/32 board.
> 
> RD
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Wow! This is the laminator that I just bought for $15 from a thrift store:

<http://www.amazon.com/GBC-12-5-Inch-Commercial-Laminator-1701620/dp/B000X0RIGQ/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1285032158&sr=1-16>

$390!! Yikes. 

If it doesn't go up high enough, I figure I can gimmick the temp sensor as others have done here. Hopefully the internals aren't plastic.

Steve Greenfield AE7HD

The sensor is mounted on a spring loaded arm, and rides directly on the lower front roller. It looks like a glass bead diode. The arm mount is bolted to the bottom frame via a slot. I just slid the arm out in the slot until it was about 1/4" away from the roller. 

Since the actual temperature isn't important, I just moved it out until i got good transfers. The temperature still reads, but is the temperature 1/4" away from the roller, not the roller temperature. 

This is the fourth laminator I have modified for toner transfer. This one has outlasted all the others combined. This one was also the simplest mod.

RD



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@...> wrote:

>
> 
> 
> RD,
> 
> Thanks for the link. The Apache AL13P Professional appears to be a great laminator for the price.
> 
> Could you elaborate on the placement of the temperature sensor? Do you move it closer or farther from the rollers? Also, will the readout give the correct temperature after the adjustment?
> 
> Baxter
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "RDHeiliger" <rdheiliger@> wrote:
> >
> > Instead of milling new side frames for a $25 laminator, I would recommend buying a $65 laminator that has four rollers instead of two, and has steel frames and case. Also the temperature can be raised by simply moving the sensor about 1/4" from the rollers. The roller pressure can also be lowered with 4 screws from the bottom. Note that I replaced the 10 rpm AC  motor with a 12 VDC 2 rpm gear motor. I get good transfers with 3 passes. 
> > 
> > http://www.amazon.com/Apache-AL13P-Professional-Laminator-Document/dp/B0012UEQ5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284997741&sr=8-1
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I also found that I need about 10-15 *C higher temperature with 1/16 board than 1/32 board.
> > 
> > RD
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

What is the max temperature this laminator will do stock out of the box?  That forward/reverse and temperature indication sure looks NICE!!  I just might order one.

Thank you for the link and info.

Ken H>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "RDHeiliger" <rdheiliger@...> wrote:

>
> Instead of milling new side frames for a $25 laminator, I would recommend buying a $65 laminator that has four rollers instead of two, and has steel frames and case. Also the temperature can be raised by simply moving the sensor about 1/4" from the rollers. The roller pressure can also be lowered with 4 screws from the bottom. Note that I replaced the 10 rpm AC  motor with a 12 VDC 2 rpm gear motor. I get good transfers with 3 passes. 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Apache-AL13P-Professional-Laminator-Document/dp/B0012UEQ5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284997741&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> 
> I also found that I need about 10-15 *C higher temperature with 1/16 board than 1/32 board.
> 
> RD
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

The specs from the amazon page:

Product Features and Technical Details
Product Features 
4 Silicone Rollers 
Forward and Reverse Switch 
Dual LED's Red LED When Preheating Green LED When Ready 
ISO9002 Designation 
6 Month Manufacturer's Warranty 
Technical Details 
Power: 600W
LEDS: Red LED when preheating. Green LED when ready.
Voltage: 110-120V AC, 2.4A @ 60Hz
Speed: 2.5pp/min
Working Temperature Range: 77F (25C) - 390.2F (200?C) (adjustable)
Thickness Range: 0.25mm Max / 120mic Max / 10 mil Max
Unit Dimensions: 19.5x8.2x4"
Laminating Width: 18" Max
Weight: 17.8LBS
Laminating Modes: Cold or Hot
Preheating: 3 Minute Preheat

Don't think mine ever actualy got to 200C. 


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:

>
> What is the max temperature this laminator will do stock out of the box?  That forward/reverse and temperature indication sure looks NICE!!  I just might order one.
> 
> Thank you for the link and info.
> 
> Ken H>
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "RDHeiliger" <rdheiliger@> wrote:
> >
> > Instead of milling new side frames for a $25 laminator, I would recommend buying a $65 laminator that has four rollers instead of two, and has steel frames and case. Also the temperature can be raised by simply moving the sensor about 1/4" from the rollers. The roller pressure can also be lowered with 4 screws from the bottom. Note that I replaced the 10 rpm AC  motor with a 12 VDC 2 rpm gear motor. I get good transfers with 3 passes. 
> > 
> > http://www.amazon.com/Apache-AL13P-Professional-Laminator-Document/dp/B0012UEQ5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284997741&sr=8-1
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I also found that I need about 10-15 *C higher temperature with 1/16 board than 1/32 board.
> > 
> > RD
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Thanks for info - I read those specs but missed the temperature line.... open my eyes!

It's listed as unavailable now, and doesn't seem to have any idea when it will be available again.  Darn it - I was about to order one today.

Even if it only gets to 325ºF would do a toner transfer with HP P1006 toner.  I nomrally do my transfers with a roller temp around 310-320ºF.

Thanks again for info.

Ken H>


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Richard" <rdheiliger@...> wrote:

>
> 
> 
> The specs from the amazon page:
> Power: 600W
> LEDS: Red LED when preheating. Green LED when ready.
> Voltage: 110-120V AC, 2.4A @ 60Hz
> Speed: 2.5pp/min
> Working Temperature Range: 77F (25C) - 390.2F (200?C) (adjustable)

Small change, I have the earlier H525, which for some reason seems to cost more. Smaller LCD display seems to be the main difference.

Speed 1 is very slow, it has reverse and stop, and max temp is 338F. I'm sure I could trick it into going higher but I will open it first to make sure the supports can take it. And I need to mod it a bit to allow 0.0625 thick boards.

Steve Greenfield AE7HD

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "alienrelics" <alienrelics@...> wrote:

>
> Wow! This is the laminator that I just bought for $15 from a thrift store:
> 
> <http://www.amazon.com/GBC-12-5-Inch-Commercial-Laminator-1701620/dp/B000X0RIGQ/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1285032158&sr=1-16>
> 
> $390!! Yikes. 
> 
> If it doesn't go up high enough, I figure I can gimmick the temp sensor as others have done here. Hopefully the internals aren't plastic.
> 
> Steve Greenfield AE7HD
>

The laminator is now in stock.....  at $229!!!



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:

>
> 
> Thanks for info - I read those specs but missed the temperature line.... open my eyes!
> 
> It's listed as unavailable now, and doesn't seem to have any idea when it will be available again.  Darn it - I was about to order one today.
> 
> Even if it only gets to 325ºF would do a toner transfer with HP P1006 toner.  I nomrally do my transfers with a roller temp around 310-320ºF.
> 
> Thanks again for info.
> 
> Ken H>
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Richard" <rdheiliger@> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > 
> > The specs from the amazon page:
> > Power: 600W
> > LEDS: Red LED when preheating. Green LED when ready.
> > Voltage: 110-120V AC, 2.4A @ 60Hz
> > Speed: 2.5pp/min
> > Working Temperature Range: 77F (25C) - 390.2F (200?C) (adjustable)
>

Machining those side-supports out of fiberglass epoxy isn't looking so bad now, is it?

;')

Steve Greenfield AE7HD

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:

>
> The laminator is now in stock.....  at $229!!!
> 
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > Thanks for info - I read those specs but missed the temperature line.... open my eyes!
> > 
> > It's listed as unavailable now, and doesn't seem to have any idea when it will be available again.  Darn it - I was about to order one today.
> > 
> > Even if it only gets to 325ºF would do a toner transfer with HP P1006 toner.  I nomrally do my transfers with a roller temp around 310-320ºF.
> > 
> > Thanks again for info.
> > 
> > Ken H>
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Richard" <rdheiliger@> wrote:
> > >
> > > 
> > > 
> > > The specs from the amazon page:
> > > Power: 600W
> > > LEDS: Red LED when preheating. Green LED when ready.
> > > Voltage: 110-120V AC, 2.4A @ 60Hz
> > > Speed: 2.5pp/min
> > > Working Temperature Range: 77F (25C) - 390.2F (200?C) (adjustable)
> >
>

considering the final price of the mod (5 €) 
considering the fact that you don't have to change the motor 

I would say the same :-) 

My finished working laminator costed 25€ 
not so bad !! 

JP 


----- Mail Original ----- 
De: "alienrelics" <alienrelics@...> 
À: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> 
Envoyé: Jeudi 23 Septembre 2010 14h04:15 GMT +01:00 Amsterdam / Berlin / Berne / Rome / Stockholm / Vienne 
Objet: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC Laminators 






Machining those side-supports out of fiberglass epoxy isn't looking so bad now, is it? 

;') 

Steve Greenfield AE7HD 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com , "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote: 
> 
> The laminator is now in stock..... at $229!!! 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com , "sailingto" <sailingtoo@> wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks for info - I read those specs but missed the temperature line.... open my eyes! 
> > 
> > It's listed as unavailable now, and doesn't seem to have any idea when it will be available again. Darn it - I was about to order one today. 
> > 
> > Even if it only gets to 325ºF would do a toner transfer with HP P1006 toner. I nomrally do my transfers with a roller temp around 310-320ºF. 
> > 
> > Thanks again for info. 
> > 
> > Ken H> 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com , "Richard" <rdheiliger@> wrote: 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > The specs from the amazon page: 
> > > Power: 600W 
> > > LEDS: Red LED when preheating. Green LED when ready. 
> > > Voltage: 110-120V AC, 2.4A @ 60Hz 
> > > Speed: 2.5pp/min 
> > > Working Temperature Range: 77F (25C) - 390.2F (200?C) (adjustable) 
> > 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]