Homebrew PCBs

Thank you for the valueable information.

I have a multimeter with a temperature measument probe. I'll check the rolls
to ensure that they are below 195�C.

I'll just try 6K8 resistor and measure the temperature, if it is around
170�C then I'll leave like that. Otherwise I can solder a 10K trimpot and
check the temperature.

Regards.

GN


2010/9/20 freedom2000 <freedom2000@...>

>
>
> 6;8 k should be OK
>
> The best way is to put a trim resistor so that you can adjust easily the
> value.
> A friend of mine bought exactly the same GBC as mine, and his resistor
> value wasn't the same as mine for the same temperature !
>
> You should always check the temperature and stop the laminator if it
> climbs aboce 195� C
>
> The epoxy walls are really perfect, they don't deform at all.
> Furthermore the little "cut" across the wall acts as a spring and allow
> deformation when the PCB is to thick
>
> I have already milled 3 laminators.
> Two are working like a charm and I have no news of the third one (should
> be OK too !)
>
> JP
>
> Le 19/09/2010 23:16, Gokhan Nalbant a �crit :
>
> > Well, if the laminator can stand that high temperature I prefer this
> method,
> > since my HP toner needs 170�C, I suppose. Using thick epoxy gives enough
> > headache to the laminator, so decreasing the number of passes can be a
> > better way. I don't have any resistor around 7K, the nearest one is 6K8
> 1/4w
> > metal film %1 tolerance. Would it be too low?
> >
> > Regards.
> >
> > GN
> >
> > 2010/9/19 freedom2000<freedom2000@... <freedom2000%40free.fr>>
> >
> >>
> >> Hi,
> >>
> >> 150+C is definitvely not enough
> >>
> >> I have climbed up to 190�C (peak)
> >>
> >> You shoud increase your resistor a bit (7 K ohm)
> >>
> >> JP
> >>
> >> Le 19/09/2010 20:50, Gokhan Nalbant a �crit :
> >>
> >>> Hi,
> >>>
> >>> I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions
> as
> >>> stated below link.
> >>>
> >>
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >>> I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
> >>> temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for
> >> proper
> >>> toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for
> >> that
> >>> laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
> >>>
> >>> My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
> >> including
> >>> the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
> >>> successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the
> >> HP
> >>> toner.
> >>>
> >>> Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use
> >> another
> >>> printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> GN
> >>>
> >>> <
> >>
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >>>
> >>> 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger<rdheiliger@... <rdheiliger%40msn.com>
> <rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
>
> >>>
> >>>> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> >>>> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
> >> temperature
> >>>> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> >>>> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to
> get
> >> the
> >>>> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> >>>> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted.
> >> The
> >>>> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend
> this
> >>>> laminator.
> >>>>
> >>>> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed
> rate
> >> on
> >>>> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear
> >> motor
> >>>> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control
> also
> >> did
> >>>> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
> >> looks
> >>>> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that
> >> rides on
> >>>> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll
> increases
> >> the
> >>>> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced
> >> the
> >>>> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
> >> also
> >>>> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The
> >> crimp
> >>>> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> >>>> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
> >> nichrome
> >>>> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
> >> sound
> >>>> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It
> still
> >>>> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
> >>>>
> >>>> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> >>>> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over
> >> just
> >>>> using paper for the transfer.
> >>>>
> >>>> RD
> >>>>
> >>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ------------------------------------
> >>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> >> Photos:
> >>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>  
>


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