Homebrew PCBs

Well, if the laminator can stand that high temperature I prefer this method,
since my HP toner needs 170�C, I suppose. Using thick epoxy gives enough
headache to the laminator, so decreasing the number of passes can be a
better way. I don't have any resistor around 7K, the nearest one is 6K8 1/4w
metal film %1 tolerance. Would it be too low?

Regards.

GN

2010/9/19 freedom2000 <freedom2000@...>

>
>
> Hi,
>
> 150+C is definitvely not enough
>
> I have climbed up to 190�C (peak)
>
> You shoud increase your resistor a bit (7 K ohm)
>
> JP
>
> Le 19/09/2010 20:50, Gokhan Nalbant a �crit :
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
> > stated below link.
> >
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >
> > I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
> > temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for
> proper
> > toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for
> that
> > laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
> >
> > My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
> including
> > the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
> > successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the
> HP
> > toner.
> >
> > Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use
> another
> > printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
> >
> >
> > GN
> >
> > <
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >
> >
> > 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger<rdheiliger@... <rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
> >
> >>
> >> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> >> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
> temperature
> >> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> >> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get
> the
> >> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> >> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted.
> The
> >> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
> >> laminator.
> >>
> >> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate
> on
> >> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear
> motor
> >> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also
> did
> >> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
> looks
> >> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that
> rides on
> >> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases
> the
> >> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced
> the
> >> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
> also
> >> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The
> crimp
> >> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> >> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
> nichrome
> >> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
> sound
> >> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
> >> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
> >>
> >> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> >> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over
> just
> >> using paper for the transfer.
> >>
> >> RD
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
>
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>  
>


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