Homebrew PCBs

Mike,

I strongly agree with your goal(s). It would be awfully nice to be 
able to produce a usable pcb in under 10 minutes from design to 
finished board. I use mostly smt and can often get by with single 
sided, especially if I use zero ohm 1206 size resistors as "jumpers". 
I'd like to be able to do tqfp parts, which require about 11-12 mil 
spaces and 15 mil traces, but I doubt that the Silhouette/dremel can 
do that reliably, but maybe ???

I'm probably going to take a somewhat different tack than you are, 
using adhesive copper foil on a thin substrate, but since I've never 
used a vinyl cutter, I'm not sure what it can reliably do.

Mark



At 02:10 PM 9/12/2012, you wrote:
>Yes, I did use a Dremel extension but the one that Dremel supplies 
>in some kits and you can buy separately is too stiff and is a fairly 
>significant load on the machine by itself though the handpiece 
>bearings may be better for low runout. Please see my website I 
>posted above. There's a list of parts I'm using. My Dremel tool is 
>Model 4000 but many of the others should work (but probably not the 
>battery operated one). With the extension attached, I get about 30K rpm.
>
>Yes, dust could be a problem The flexible hand-piece holder coupler 
>I had to make has a plastic "nose" that rides against and 
>pneumatically seals to the copperclad. I am experimenting with 
>evacuating this coupler with a flexible hose for removing the dust.
>
>The weight of the Dremel tool itself isn't relevant here as the 
>flexible extension minimizes this. I also use a spring to neutralize 
>the extra weight of the hand-piece. See the video. I will also 
>update my website soon.  I am working on 
>acceptable_degrees_of_success  (my call) for
>
>
>1.      Making of the hand-piece coupler a relatively easy to 
>accomplish task. (I had to use a lathe for the 1st version :()
>
>2.      Registering the top and bottom images for double sided PCBs 
>(almost there)
>
>3.      Being able to cut out the PCB and large routing outlines. 
>(not started)
>
>4.      Labeling the parts on the PCB (almost there)
>
>5.      Dust collection (in process)
>
>6.      Document minimum repeatable trace & line widths. (not started)
>
>7.      Work out a few small "kinks" in the Silhouette Cameo 
>software with the GREAT support team there.
>
>8.      Converting the Excellon drill file to a Silhouette readable 
>code. (not started).
>
>9.      Use the normal drag-knife in the cutter to produce stencils 
>for solder paste, NAMES, solder mask, etc. (not started)
>
>Note - the Silhouette Cameo does not read G-code so a Drill file to 
>G-code to ? may be a difficult route. The Pro version of Silhouette 
>Studio does accept .svg vector files. Using the Silhouette's 
>software, you cannot specify with in-line code, the spindle speed, 
>rapid speed, feed (speed) or vector order. You can globally specify 
>feed rate and rapid rate. Given these constraints, I've still 
>managed to produce some very usable PCBs using my fairly quick and easy method.
>
>Just to understand, my overall goal was to produce a list of parts 
>that require no modifications (or VERY little), free software (today 
>it's EagleCAD and what comes with the Silhouette), no programming 
>knowledge and an easy to follow recipe to produce a usable PCB.
>
>Thanks for your interest.
>
>Mike
>
>
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