Homebrew PCBs

I'm pretty sure I once experimented with Brother printers and was able to get it to work without the fuser. I guess one way you could do it is to use a datalogger to see what happens with the thermistors and then emulate it with a microprocessor. I believe it was a Brother printer that I once fed a piece of .007 copperclad through and got a perfect print, perfectly fused as it passed through the fuser. I don't believe I ever got that to work with anything other than a Brother.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
>From: "Slavko Kocjancic eslavko@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Dec 16, 2014 8:06 AM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] A short story of the Selenium Photo-sensitive Drum.
>
>On 16. 12. 2014 13:52, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] 
>wrote:
>> Less time, perhaps not 5 mil, but close:
>>
>> <http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser--1/>
>>
>> Mark
>>
>
>Choosen printer is not available here on cheap. Nor the toner/drum. I 
>sniffing around Brother HL22xx series but seems that even removing fuser 
>unit dissable printer to print. There are two thermistors on unit and 
>just simple tampering with correct thermistor for "hot" doesn't work. 
>Seems that temperature controll throw error if thermistors doesn't 
>change resistance when lamp is on or off...
>
>
>
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