Synth-DIY Yahoo! Groups Archives

Thanks for the freezer tip Malcolm. I might try that on my next one. Soaking and rubbing the paper is a minor nuisance, but the toner's adhesion here is typically all or nothing. The areas that stick properly (ideally ALL of the board) are so tough that you'd almost need to scratch into them to get any off, while if there's a spot or two which didn't get the right amount of heat, that toner will almost float right off in the soapy water. Luckily, most of my problem areas are with larger black sections (ground pours,etc.), so I can usually go around and fix them with a paint marker. I'm trying to get in a habit of painting over larger black areas anyhow, as I sometimes get over-etched looking rough spots or an occasional pinhole in the ground pours.

All in all, I have pretty good success with toner PCBs, especially with the finer traces and hatch pattern pours. My iron has been modified with an eighth inch sheet of aluminum JB Welded to the base. The transfer is about three minutes max.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Jidis/rolleriron.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Jidis/rolleriron....

View on i5.photobucket.com

Preview by Yahoo

@Bob- I'm currently on an HP 3150, but spent a long time on a Laserjet 6L. It looks like my most recent cartridge may be from an eBay seller called "Image Warehouse". Their listings say "New Genuine", but I'm pretty sure I've used generics in the past. This cartridge looks like it's under fifteen bucks, but I am of course using ancient parallel port hardware.

Hope you can get things worked out!

Homebrew PCBs

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills

Attachments

Move to quarantaine