Yahoo Groups archive

Homebrew PCBs

Index last updated: 2026-04-28 23:05 UTC

Thread

Toner refills

Toner refills

2015-04-02 by Robert Nickels

Like most of us I suspect, I make PC boards using the toner transfer 
method.    I have an HP Laserjet 5000 which is an office-grade printer 
capable of up to 11" by 17", which is nice, but my toner transfers have 
been of marginal quality.   There's no problem in getting the transfer 
to work, but the amount of toner that is transferred seems inadequate.   
Before etching, the black areas where toner is present appears mottled 
and not solid black, with tiny pinholes visible.   Even though I use the 
green film, the copper is rough after etching, traces are undercut and 
of inconsistent width.   I've already got my printer maxxed-out as far 
as settings go.

I use the Pulsar transfer paper, and they advise that my problems are 
due to using refilled toner cartridges which don't contain enough or the 
right kind of materials.  Even though the output looks fine on paper I 
can accept this, but the refilled cartridges are a small fraction of the 
cost of new HP brand toner cartridges (e.g. HP 29X which sells for $235).

My question is:  are there any recommended alternatives which would give 
me better results at a cost somewhere between the bargain refills and 
the new HP 29X?

Thanks and 73,
Bob W9RAN

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills

2015-04-02 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

I use inkjet photo paper and refilled cartridges on an HP1010. The cartridges are icplus from ebay.  After heating the paper to transfer (I use a domestic iron), put the board in the freezer for 20-30 minutes.
No rubbing or wetting the paper to remove it, just peel and all the toner stays on the PCB copper.  The clay on the paper holds the toner to give a superb crisp image.  You do get a white coating on the toner from the clay on the photo paper, but it has no effect when etching.  

Malcolm


I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 4/2/15, Robert Nickels w9ran@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
 Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills
 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 Date: Thursday, April 2, 2015, 3:25 PM
 
 
  
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
       
       
       Like most of us I suspect, I make PC boards using
 the toner transfer 
 
 method.    I have an HP Laserjet 5000 which is an
 office-grade printer 
 
 capable of up to 11" by 17", which is nice, but my
 toner transfers have 
 
 been of marginal quality.   There's no problem in
 getting the transfer 
 
 to work, but the amount of toner that is transferred seems
 inadequate.   
 
 Before etching, the black areas where toner is present
 appears mottled 
 
 and not solid black, with tiny pinholes visible.   Even
 though I use the 
 
 green film, the copper is rough after etching, traces are
 undercut and 
 
 of inconsistent width.   I've already got my printer
 maxxed-out as far 
 
 as settings go.
 
 
 
 I use the Pulsar transfer paper, and they advise that my
 problems are 
 
 due to using refilled toner cartridges which don't
 contain enough or the 
 
 right kind of materials.  Even though the output looks fine
 on paper I 
 
 can accept this, but the refilled cartridges are a small
 fraction of the 
 
 cost of new HP brand toner cartridges (e.g. HP 29X which
 sells for $235).
 
 
 
 My question is:  are there any recommended alternatives
 which would give 
 
 me better results at a cost somewhere between the bargain
 refills and 
 
 the new HP 29X?
 
 
 
 Thanks and 73,
 
 Bob W9RAN
 
 
 
     
      
 
     
     
 
 
 
 #yiv3585390643 #yiv3585390643 --

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills

2015-04-02 by camillus blockx

I would try different toners, it is said that brother toner does not work good either. So ask those company's that provide toner in bulk, they have good knowledge about this.

cb

On 4/2/2015 9:25:03 AM, Robert Nickels w9ran@oneradio.net [Homebrew_PCBs] <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Like most of us I suspect, I make PC boards using the toner transfer
method. I have an HP Laserjet 5000 which is an office-grade printer
capable of up to 11" by 17", which is nice, but my toner transfers have
been of marginal quality. There's no problem in getting the transfer
to work, but the amount of toner that is transferred seems inadequate.
Before etching, the black areas where toner is present appears mottled
and not solid black, with tiny pinholes visible. Even though I use the
green film, the copper is rough after etching, traces are undercut and
of inconsistent width. I've already got my printer maxxed-out as far
as settings go.

I use the Pulsar transfer paper, and they advise that my problems are
due to using refilled toner cartridges which don't contain enough or the
right kind of materials. Even though the output looks fine on paper I
can accept this, but the refilled cartridges are a small fraction of the
cost of new HP brand toner cartridges (e.g. HP 29X which sells for $235).

My question is: are there any recommended alternatives which would give
me better results at a cost somewhere between the bargain refills and
the new HP 29X?

Thanks and 73,
Bob W9RAN

Re: Toner refills

2015-04-03 by bebx2000@...

I have used toner from,

http://www.tonerrefillkits.com/

with HP1320 and HP1102W printers. My experience is that there is no difference between the OEM toner and their refills for PCB transfers.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills

2015-04-11 by soffee83@...

Thanks for the freezer tip Malcolm. I might try that on my next one. Soaking and rubbing the paper is a minor nuisance, but the toner's adhesion here is typically all or nothing. The areas that stick properly (ideally ALL of the board) are so tough that you'd almost need to scratch into them to get any off, while if there's a spot or two which didn't get the right amount of heat, that toner will almost float right off in the soapy water. Luckily, most of my problem areas are with larger black sections (ground pours,etc.), so I can usually go around and fix them with a paint marker. I'm trying to get in a habit of painting over larger black areas anyhow, as I sometimes get over-etched looking rough spots or an occasional pinhole in the ground pours.

All in all, I have pretty good success with toner PCBs, especially with the finer traces and hatch pattern pours. My iron has been modified with an eighth inch sheet of aluminum JB Welded to the base. The transfer is about three minutes max.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Jidis/rolleriron.jpg

@Bob- I'm currently on an HP 3150, but spent a long time on a Laserjet 6L. It looks like my most recent cartridge may be from an eBay seller called "Image Warehouse". Their listings say "New Genuine", but I'm pretty sure I've used generics in the past. This cartridge looks like it's under fifteen bucks, but I am of course using ancient parallel port hardware.

Hope you can get things worked out!

Move to quarantaine

This moves the raw source file on disk only. The archive index is not changed automatically, so you still need to run a manual refresh afterward.