Homebrew PCBs

You can get toner transfer sheet on ebay from China, but I use gloss photo paper meant for ink jet printers to print the laser image onto.  I then place the heat transferred paper and PCB into the freezer for 20 mins and the paper peels off leaving a perfect image on the copper for etching.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

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On Tue, 10/6/15, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10 questions
 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2015, 6:58 PM
 
 
  
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
       
       
       Thanks guys.  I think the important thing for me
 is getting as close as I can to original material/look.  If
 the toner process works just as well and avoids some
 difficulting in finding presensitized boards, I could go
 that route. Whatever it is, I just want something that has
 that vintage G10 green look.  Brad  From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] 
 Sent: Thursday, October 1, 2015 12:55
 PM
 To: Homebrew PCBs
 <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
 Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10
 questions    Sweet
 Memories:
  There was once
 a really super company called Kepro.
  They sold
 presensitized (with Kodak KPR) boards stock, both paper and
 G10 epoxy, for veryreasonable
 prices, and in a variety of sizes. You could even send in
 your own material andthey would
 coat it for you.
  They also made
 a comprehensive array of photo-coat/expose/etch equipment,
 good enoughproto and
 light production operations.
  When the Feds
 put a ban on aromatic compounds like Kodak KPR and others,
 the entireindustry went
 belly up, including the aforementioned DynaChem, which was
 also pretty goodstuff if you
 took the time to learn how to use it
 correctly.
  I think most
 small-timers went to dry film resist, which is still
 available from several offshoresellers on
 Ebay. There are also some sellers of liquid resist on
 Ebay.
  I just prefer
 to purchase presensitized material from several suppliers on
 Ebay, along withthe required
 developer and plating solutions.
  Of course
 etching is a cinch using a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and
 muriatic acid, whichis sold in my
 neck of the woods as swimming pool
 cleaner.
  Copy machine
 transfer is good if you like to fart around all day just to
 produce a singlePCB.
  Keep the
 faith.
  Roland F.
 Harriston, P.D.*************************
  From:
 "roger@rogerandlinda.net
 [Homebrew_PCBs]"
 <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
 To:
 "Homebrew PCBs"
 <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
 Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015
 8:34:54 AM
 Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs]
 Re: G-10 questions
   I also built
 boards in the early years. One of the spray on resists was
 produced by a company called Dynachem. It was a system that
 required a solvent developer and a dye to color it so you
 could see what was going on. Going by the odor of the
 product, it was probably the same product later sold through
 GC Electronics with the dye added to the resist. Bishop
 graphics made the the stick on pattters for the tape up
 artwork. They patterns were available in 1X, 2X and larger
 IIIRC. I had a camera lens I picked up at a surplus store
 and made my own setup for 2X artwork and used Kodalith sheet
 film for the negatives. The spray on resist gave me
 inconsistant results, probably more my fault than the
 products fault. There was also a dry transfer product that
 used rub-on patterns and traced. There were also dry
 transfer letters for labels on projects. I still have some
 of the G10 copper clad material from that era never used it
 all.
  No virus found in this
 message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2015.0.6086 / Virus Database:
 4409/10551 - Release Date: 08/31/15
 Internal
 Virus Database is out of date. 
 
     
      
 
     
     
 
 
 
 #yiv2387718152 #yiv2387718152 --