> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> Sent: 30 September 2015 10:40
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10 questions
>
> Brad
>
> The simple answer is no. Laser printers did not exist then so toner transfer
> was not possible. Silk screen materials were available and you could do a
> screen if you had access to a college art department.
>
> Again you could cheat by doing a colour laser printout thermal transfer. You
> need some means of aligning the image to the board.
>
> Malcolm
>
> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
> The writing is on the wall.
> Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Wed, 9/30/15, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10 questions
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, September 30, 2015, 5:51 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks muchly Malcolm. That
> makes things a lot clearer. Question – did you do any silkscreening back
> then for parts placement? I notice in the plans printed by Radio Electronics,
> they had the printouts for the copper side, but also silkscreening for the
> non-copper side to aid in parts placement. I’m wondering how a home
> hobbyist at the time might have pulled that off, or if they did. From:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 4:15
> PM
> To:
> Homebrew_PCBs@...m
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10
> questions Back in those days I used two
> methods:
> Copper clad FR4 was available, but
> a lot of SRBP was used as it was much cheaper.
> The first method was to paint, by hand, using mothers thinned nail varnish
> onto a carbon paper print traced from the layout printout.
> There was a
> great negative photo resist, KPCR, made by Kodak, sadly no longer available
> that you exposed to ultra violet light through a negative transparency of the
> of the layout.
> Then developed in a solvent based solution that coloured your fingers red
> for at least a week if you got it on them.
>
> So you would not
> be cheating if you used modern pre-sensitized copper FR4 from companies
> such as Mega, <http://www.megauk.com/pcb_laminates.php>
> or a dry film:
> <http://www.instructables.com/id/Fantastic-Double-Sided-PCBs-at-home-
> using-photores/>
> or
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRCFGZxmob0>
>
> Malcolm
>
> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
> The
> writing is on the wall.
> Ha-ktovet al
> ha-kir
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Tue, 9/29/15, 'Brad'
> unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10
> questions
> To:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday,
> September 29, 2015, 11:51 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi guys,
> I’ve been continuing to
> research and
> amass parts for my TV Typewriter replica build.
> I have a blog of it here:
> http://bradhodge.ca/blog
> -- mostly working
> on the case right now to inspire me to
> push
> forward, but I’ve succeeded in getting almost all of the vintage 1973 or
> earlier chips I needed. Now I’m down to the PCBs again.
> I guess I’m still
> kind of
> ‘green’ on this sort of thing. Ideally, I’d like to do my PCBs the way they
> would have in 1973. But I still don’t understand how that worked. Don
> Lancaster said the boards used were green G-10. I found this on
> ebay:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Green-G-10-FR4-Sheets-032-Thick-x-28-x-7-
> 25-G10-Material-/141719358328?hash=item20ff21cb78
> I guess what I’m having trouble
> with is
> understanding how a home PCB maker in 1973 would have gone about
> getting copper onto these boards and copying the artwork from the
> article. Is there any really good, baby-steps reading out there? I just want to
> understand the original process and if it is possible to replicate it here in
> 2015. I sort of understand the idea behind photo lithography.. I’m just not
> understanding how copper ends up on board, etc. Much
> appreciated! BRad
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> No virus found in this
> message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.6086 / Virus Database:
> 4409/10551 - Release Date: 08/31/15
> Internal
> Virus Database is out of date.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> ------------------------------------
>
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