Let me second that Office Max Maxbright 94 /24lb Inkjet paper, same deal about $5.00 for 500. It actually the same stuff as office depot, jut a diff package. JT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil" <phil1960us@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 8:33 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: to drill or not to drill part 2 > yes, I use office despot general use inkjet paper. 92 white, 24 lb. > Look in the database section of this group for the exact details but > I think any good quality inkjet printer paper will work. The good > news is it costs about $5/500 sheets. > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas" > <geovar13@h...> wrote: > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> > wrote: > > > > Thank you, > > > > now what exactly is inkjet paper. Is that the regular white > paper? > > > > Another important question. Onced I finished I put the leftover > > FerricCloride back in the bottle. However there was a little bit > left > > in the container I did the etching. I watch it out with lots of > > water. My question is should I neutralize that little leftover with > > something. I mean I want to do things right and protect the > > enviroment. I found out that in my area all I have to do is take my > > ferric cloride bottle to a collection facility and since is for non > > comercial use then its free. > > > > > Congrats on progress. It is very satisfying to see that pattern > > come > > > out on the copper. > > > > > > You really dont need to use PnP. Try, instead, using a decent > > > quality inkjet paper (not glossy, no special coatings, ...). Use > a > > > very hot iron (cotton, highest setting) and lots of pressure. I > > use > > > kids construction paper between the iron and the transfer paper > to > > > even out the irregularities. Once you are done with the > ironing, > > > turn off the iron but leave it sitting on the board/paper until > it > > > cools down a bit (below the fusing point) to ensure good toner > > > adhesion to the copper. this process is highly reliable for me > and > > > the last few boards I did required NO touching up. > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas" > > > <geovar13@h...> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Ok, today I did my first PCB. It tuen out pretty good. I > > though > > > it > > > > would be a little bit more complicated. I follow most people > > advice > > > > and drilled at after the etching procees. The hole in the pads > > did > > > > worked as a guide plus it was eaier to drill because there is > no > > > > copper there. > > > > > > > > Before I did the etching I was at a dilema. I found out that > > my > > > > pads where too small. My options where to enlarge the pads with > a > > > > Sharpie or redo the drawing. I only have 3 PnP sheets left. So > > > after > > > > a little bit of search I found a website that saud you can use > > > staple > > > > photo paper. > > > > > > > > http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm > > > > > > > > Now I tried using this process on another blank PCB. I dodn't > > > know > > > > but I can't make it work. I can transfer some of the toner but > a > > > lot > > > > of the traces did not stick. I did this process at least 5 > times > > > > maybe more. The results where not satifactory for me. I would > > like > > > to > > > > hear from somebody about this because at staples you can get > 200 > > > > sheets for $30. That is cheap. On the other hand if I cant make > > it > > > > work then is no good to me. Here is what I did > > > > > > > > I made the print out on the glossy side. I preheated the > > copper > > > > board then I put the printout. I but a black piece of paper on > > top > > > of > > > > the printout because the photo paper sticks to the iron.I Iron > > that > > > > thing left and right and any which way possible aplying various > > > > pressures. When I was done I ran it under cold water then I > gave > > it > > > a > > > > hot water bath. Now the hot water was not boiling just as hot > as > > I > > > > could get it from the faucet. I tried peeling the paper off and > > > only > > > > a few traces stuck. > > > > > > > > In the end I just filled in the pads with a Sharpie in my > board > > > > that I did using the PnP paper. It only took me 3 tries to get > > the > > > > PnP to work right. The first one it did not stick too well. The > > > > second one was a an aligment problem. or maybe it was a mirror > > > > problem. Unless someone can tell me whats wrong with the photo > > > paper > > > > technique I'm sticking with the PnP even though is expensive. > > > > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: to drill or not to drill part 2
2004-03-28 by Jeremy Taylor
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