Homebrew PCBs

Excuse the ignorance - I'm just returning to PC board fabrication after a
long absence.  Years ago, when I was using Kepro and Kodak photoresists, the
best way I found to clean a board was with  a chlorinated scouring powder
(Comet comes to mind).  This left a bright, very mildly abraded surface that
had no problem supporting an unbroken film of water, and when dried, took
the liquid photoresist nicely.  Is this completely outdated, or not
applicable for the toner transfer methods?

Norm