Homebrew PCBs

I don't think Stefan pushed his product too hard (although I'm still
wondering if I should press charges for spamming   :D   ).

And I like reading when people write their thinking process.  Sometimes it's
just a little comment that sparks an idea.

The problem for me with printing on a single sheet and then folding is that
my software (QCAD) is not that flexible.  I can print one pattern, or a
mosaic of the same pattern, but I can't print one pattern and then another a
short distance after it.

That's why I'm looking for a way of aligning 2 individual pieces of paper.

Robert
:)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de mycroft2152
Envoyé : mai 26 2005 17:24
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: RE : [Homebrew_PCBs] New paper for TT! Reynolds Parchment Paper


Hey Stefan,

Lighten up a little bit and stop kicking a dead horse, you made your 
point. Not everyone wants to or has the room for the guts to an old 
laser printer attached to a chicken barbeque motor on their 
workbench.

True its a valid way to go, but a PITA to build. Some of us would 
rather just buy a laminator that works. To each his own.

As far a double sided printing, the folded paper works fine. 
Silicone anti slip is just extra work. If you must tie the silicone 
coating into the process then put a strip along the edge of the RPP 
to prevent movement!

Let's keep this a open discussion of the many ways to improve 
homebrew pcb's rather than forcing one method on us all.

Myc

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> On Thu, 26 May 2005 22:26:57 +0200, Robert Hedan
> <robert.hedan@v...> wrote:
> 
> > Has anyone figured out how to align the 2 sides for single-pass
transfer  
> > for
> > 2-layer PCBs?
> > Silicone is non-stick, I'm not sure how to keep the 2 sheets
aligned  
> > through
> > the laminator.
> > Robert
> 
> 
> luckily, if you coat the pages with high-temp silicone yourself it
is  
> everything but non-stick, you can't slide a page coated in that
way  
> against a smooth surface. (Kind of like the rubber mats for old
people to  
> put in the bathtub so they don't slip).
> 
> 
> But, my method of choice uses a sheet of heavy paper (thin
cardboard) that  
> is folded in the center.
> 
> Your printouts must have a 3cm+ excess paper on one edge (same
edge).
> 
> Align your printouts against a light source, no pcb inserted or
anyting.  
> hold together with right hand on the center of the printouts. Now open 
> the folded cardboard with left hand, and put the
printouts in it  
> with the excess paper in the fold. hold the things together, from
the  
> outside of the cardboard, over the excess paper. now open the
printouts up  
> and slide PCB in (take care to get the component legend on the non-
copper  
> side if you do one side copper and one side legend, don't ask...).
now  
> hold together over the PCB (from outide the cardboard) and feed
into fuser  
> with folded edge first.
> 
> I usually give it a second run without the cardboard, for the
added  
> thickness makes the heating take longer (I turn the thing over for
the  
> second run).
> 
> It works well.
> 
> What i wonder sometimes is if it would be easier to sand one edge
of the  
> board to a centered sharp edge and simply fold the paper over..
> 
> ST





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