Homebrew PCBs

Robert Hedan wrote:
> Forgot to mention one important thing, this was on the silkscreen side of
> the board, not the copper side.  I wanted to see if the laminator was able
> to at least do that.  I have to redo the test now with a piece of 1-sided
> copper-clad.
> 
> It's possible that the bare surface might require some prepping, like 600
> grit paper or another light abrasive.  The surface is REALLY glossy and a
> helping hand might be all it needed.
> 
> I now have 2 more brands of paper:
> - Reynold's, as originally tested.
> - Multi-Bake, by PERKINS Cascade Group.
> 
> Getting a HP 2100 in a few hours, so I'll complete my tests then.
> 
> Robert
> :)
> 


   While I'm still going to get a cheap laminator, and like the Reynolds on 
basic testing, all the little extras and gotchas make me really want direct 
printing.


   After disassembly and a lot more looking, the initial feed, drum/transfer, 
and pressure rollers may all be in line with the cartridge installed despite how 
the service manual diagram looks, if not it's close and shouldn't take much for 
a mod.  Bet the .025" blanks I have coming could handle any necessary bend.  The 
exit roller isn't in plane, but you could really just let the board drop after 
the fuser, and just hack out the exit area.  Only other thing is the fuser is 
tilted slightly over the pressure roller, expecting the paper edge to drop 
slightly and then get rolled back up by the pressure roller as it enters.  If 
the board can feed reasonably straight from entry, drum, to pressure then it'll 
be easy enough to adjust the fuser angle.

   If nothing else works, I will totally hack out a fuser section.  Since it 
prints to metal, the input and drum sections should print, and then feed it 
straight to a laminator's rollers.  Would rather use the built in fuser, but it 
is not roller based instead having a stationary strip and a 'rolling' teflon 
sleeve.  May cause smearing if that sleeve won't roll properly over the thick 
stock since it'll keep it away from the pressure roller at the edges.  A true 
heated roller would work there if it won't.

   Will take some major cutting to cut the paper entry section to let a board 
come in straight though, it's got near vertical feed and probably goes through 
60 deg bend to the printing plane.  Just plastic so not impossible just will 
take some sawing.  Hmm, actually though a single saw blade pass at the right 
place, depth, and angle might do it for a board entry slot, so maybe just a good 
table saw with fine blade would be enough.

Alan