Homebrew PCBs

Oh, I just ran down and took those pics after you asked.  I am not 
sure why the temp setting is cranked all the way up.  Perhaps someone 
was actually dry-mounting a small pic in a hurry.....

When using PNP Blue, I set it between 350 and 375.  When the set temp 
is reached, the green light blinks.

The cardboard is another one I cannot easily explain.  Obviously 
someone else was using it.  It could be that someone had used it for 
laminating a small business card or something....(hey that may 
explain the high temp setting... oh, well)

I primarily posted the pics for information so others could see what 
the dry mount press looked like.  I got a close-up of the nameplate 
to identify it and paid no attention to the setting..

Anyway, this works way better than the Iron method as the lid locks 
down and aplies even pressure and temperature to the PNP blue and PCB 
material.

When I do 2 sided boards, I drill registration holes in the corners 
of the board and the PNP Blue material.  I have made some pins that 
are ever so slightly thicker than the PCB material I use.  I simply 
drill the board and PNP material, and insert the pins.  The pins make 
sure the PNP material stays in register (doesn't slide around). The 
pins are not so thick as to keep the heat and pressure from applying 
the PNP Blue properly to the PCB.  I do one side first, then flip the 
board over and press the other side.  Then I etch.

I just wish there was an economical way to activate the through holes 
and plate the boards.  From what I know, that is almost impossible 
for the homebrew croud.   

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "High Tech" <hightechsystems@a...> wrote:
> Couple of questions it looks like you have it set at max temp 375F
> approximately in Pic #3. Is that what you are using and how long 
does it
> take? What is the cardboard for?
> Derek B.
> High Tech Systems
> Denver, Co.